Tag: Guides

  • BMW N54 & N55 ENGINE GUIDE: A TUNER’S DREAM

    With impressive turbo power and virtually limitless modding potential, the N54 and N55 are modern-day performance legends – here’s our BMW N54 and N55 engine guide as we delve beneath the surface to see what these turbo powerhouses are all about.

    Guide brought to you by Performance BMW. Words: Elizabeth de Latour. Photos: Larry Chen, Daniel Pullen, Zayne Smith, Mike Kuhn, Viktor Benyi.

    BMW N54/N55 History

    The N54 engine first appeared in the 2006 E92 335i and was introduced across the BMW range over the following three years. The twin-turbo straight-six arrived in 306hp form with 295lb ft of torque and this is the version that the majority of N54-powered cars have; the F01 740i and US-only E92/3 335is came equipped with a 326hp version, which also received 332lb ft of torque, while the most powerful version of the engine was that found in the E82 1M Coupé and E89 Z4 sDrive35is, which made 340hp, with an overboost function that gave it 369lb ft for five seconds at full throttle.

    The N55 was introduced in 2009 and went from two turbos to a single larger one and both its power and torque figures were unchanged from the N54, but peak torque arrived 100rpm earlier. Unlike the N54, there were numerous different incarnations of the N55 as BMW fitted it to just about every model. The F-range 640i, US-only E82/8 135is, F20/1 M135i and F01 740i all received the 320hp version with 332lb ft; the F22/3 M235i and LCI M135i both got the 326hp version, while the F30 ActiveHybrid 3 had the 340hp N55. Finally, the F26 X4 M40i came with a 360hp version that also got 343lb ft while the F87 M2 came with the most powerful version of the engine, with 370hp and 369lb ft of torque.

    BMW N54 N55 Engine

    Let’s get technical

    The N54 and N55 share their internal dimensions with the engine they’re based on, the M54. This means that they have an identical bore and stroke (84×89.6mm), and the compression ratio is also the same at 10.2:1, which helps to explain why it feels like a normally aspirated engine in the way it drives as it’s not a low-compression motor. However, there are several big differences – the M54 is a closed-deck single-piece block whereas the N54 is an open deck design and consists of two pieces. The water pump is also electric on the N54 whereas on the M54 it’s cast into the front of the block. As well as this, the M54 uses a more traditional fuel injection method, whereas the N54 features direct injection.

    The N54 uses two smaller turbos running at 8.8 psi in order to keep lag to a minimum, while the N55 uses one larger one, which features a twin-scroll compressor housing. This means that the exhaust side of the turbo is divided into two parts, each fed by three exhaust primaries. In addition to this, the N55 also comes equipped with Valvetronic variable valve lift technology, which improved throttle response and low-end torque as well as reducing fuel consumption by 15% and lowering emissions compared to the N54. The N55 also switched from the N54’s more expensive Piezo fuel injectors to solenoid-type ones, the former being deemed not worthwhile using any longer as markets outside of Europe could not benefit from their potential lean-burn benefits.

    BMW N54 N55 Engine

    N54/N55 tuning potential

    While the N54 and N55 are impressive performers in stock form, it’s when you start modding them that their true performance potential is realised. While both engines give good gains, the N54 will always make slightly more power simply because it has two turbos and that means it’s easier for it to generate more power. The good news is that you don’t need to spend a lot of money and you don’t need any complicated mods to see good gains on both engines – we’re going to be using the base version of each engine for reference because the more powerful ones already come pre-tweaked from BMW and so gains will vary on those.

    Your first port of call will be either a remap or a tuning box and there are plenty of options for both and they’ll both result in similar gains. A remap will get you an increase of around 60hp and 80lb ft, while a tuning box like a JB4 or bootmod3 will get you up to 80hp, and with a lot of tuning boxes being incredibly easy to install there’s really very little effort involved in getting a substantial hike in power, and at around £450 it’s a very cost-effective performance mod. On naturally aspirated engines intakes don’t generally offer much in the way of gains, but on a turbocharged car they’re always worth a look and while an intake won’t do a whole lot on its own (apart from giving you some more induction noise, which is never a bad thing), once you start throwing more mods at your N54 or N55, it all adds up. There are loads on the market to choose from but the BMS one gets good reviews and is definitely worth a look, and it costs about £130.

    The charge pipe (the pipe from the intercooler to the intake manifold) on both engines is flimsy and can fail even at stock boost pressure, so once you start upping the power an uprated one is an absolute must. For the N54 we’d look at the Rennessis pipe from SSDD (£200), which comes complete with an uprated blow-off valve, or the VRSF item (£200) for your N55. An upgraded blow-off valve is an important addition because once boost pressure increases the stock ones can leak – the N54 uses manifold absolute pressure (MAP) so is quite happy with either a recirculating or an atmospheric blow-off valve, while the N55 uses a MAF sensor and so it’s best to stick with a recirculating one (our turbo tech guide in the May issue explains why).

    BMW N54 N55 Engine

    The most restrictive point of both the N54 and N55 exhaust systems is the downpipe. On the N54 you have one of these from each turbo, and on the N55 there is just one and it’s the cat in each of these pipes that causes the restriction and a massive increase in back-pressure. Fit a de-cat downpipe and you instantly gain power, torque, improved throttle response and more noise, so they’re an absolute win all-round and you can expect to pay around £400. The rest of the exhaust is fine and any changes won’t really make a difference to power, but they will give you an awesome straight-six soundtrack to enjoy, so we’d throw one on for that reason alone. We’d also look at adding an uprated intercooler to help keep intake temperatures down, thus potentially increasing power, and one from someone like Mishimoto will set you back about £600.

    At this point, you’ll have around 400hp+ on an N55 and 420hp+ on an N54, and for most people that’s going to be enough; it won’t have cost you a fortune to get to this point and your car will feel very quick indeed. Of course, there’s always more you can do and the next step would be a set of hybrid turbos with uprated internals. It’s about £2500-3000 for a pair of hybrids for the N54 or around half that for one for the N55 and that will get you well over 500hp, potentially even over 600hp, on an N54 and around 470hp+ on an N55. You will need some additional supporting mods such as an even larger intercooler, uprated low-pressure fuel pump on the N54, and potentially even meth injection to help keep intake temperatures down and prevent detonation. If you still want more you need a big single-turbo setup and for that, you’ll need a manifold, which will set you back around £2500-3000 and then you need a turbo plus additional mods, so the costs will start to rack up but you can hit over 700hp.

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  • TOP 10 WAYS TO MAKE YOUR CAR LIGHTER

    With newer cars getting bigger and heavier each year, we list the top 10 ways to make your car lighter and faster for any budget. 

    No, don’t worry, we’re not about to suggest attending the local zumba class to, ahem, shake your booty like a Polaroid picture. What we’re really interested in here is finding that perfect weight-loss programme for your pride and joy. And, why’s that? Well, arguably it’s the easiest way to improve performance and handling.

    Yep, when you think about it, shedding pounds could be even more important than tuning itself. In the real world it’s exactly the same as gaining horsepower… and God knows we’ve all spent plenty of cash over the years trying to gain a little extra grunt, right?

    So, that’s why this month we’ve mostly been thinking about fighting that flab and freeing up some healthy, usable power. You can get the obligatory Xmas pigging out of the way first of course, we’re not total monsters. But, when you’ve sung the last words of Old Lang Syne, here’s some tips to get you fighting fit for 2020…

    Power to weight – why do I want to make my car lighter?

    Power to weight ratios are everything in the pursuit of ultimate performance. They’re the reason you don’t see many race cars with 15-subs in the boot, and why a nuclear-powered oil tanker with 60000bhp will still be beaten off the line by my nan on her mobility scooter.

    When you’re looking at weight vs power think about this: If you’ve got a car that weighs 2000kg with 200bhp, that’s a ratio of 2000:200 or 10:1. This also means every single horsepower has to push along 10kg. If you can save 200kg in mass, the ratio becomes 9:1 – a 10-percent increase in acceleration and real-world power.

    In braking terms, a small, light car has less mass to slow down and will often be able to out-brake a much larger cruiser with significantly bigger brakes. Handling will also be improved because there’s less weight for the suspension and tyres to control. And, if you’re clever, you can also influence balance, tweaking oversteer and understeer according to where you take the weight from. With less weight your car will be more reliable due to less stress on components, you’ll enhance that magical driver ‘feel’ and you’ll get more MPG too.

    Top 10 ways to make your car lighter

    1) Need it? No, then shift it!

    The easiest, not to mention cheapest, way of saving weight is the most obvious – stripping out all the old guff that you don’t need. The thing to think about is how far you want to go, especially if you want to keep your car usable on the road.

    Obviously the most hardcore dieting regimes, chiefly the ones where you’re looking to ditch all the trim, cut away excess metal and scrape away any sound deadening, will always yield the most impressive gains. On plenty of cars just removing the carpet can save a good few kilos for starters.

    Of course, no one’s forcing you to go mad, something as simple as clearing out all the old tools and rubbish knocking around your boot can save more weight than you might think. It’s also worth knowing that the full-size spare steelies on some of the more retro Jap motors can weigh up to 15kg, while a can of Tyreweld weighs next to nothing. There’s two reasons why new cars don’t come with full-size spares nowadays – performance and economy.

    Weight loss: From a few kg to a lot!
    Cost: £mostly free

    Top 10 ways to make your car lighter

    2) Get some bucket seats

    Standard seats weigh an absolute ton especially those big electric, heated jobs you get in the luxury VIP cruisers. In fact, many modders in the US and Japan strip their seats of all the electric motors and fit manual sliders in a bid to shed a few pounds.

    The average car seat can weigh 16-25kg so the best solution will always be fitting some lightweight aftermarket buckets. These are available in both reinforced fibreglass and posh composites like Kevlar and carbon fibre. Some aftermarket seats can weigh as little as 4kg and, even with the added subframes, that’s a significant drop in weight – especially if you only need the one.

    When you’re making your choice don’t forget to consider that leather generally weighs more than cloth too, just try to pick up a cow sometime…

    Weight loss: up to 25KG per seat
    Cost: from £165
    Start looking: cobra-seats.com

    Top 10 ways to make your car lighter

    3) Remember that not all rims are equal

    Steel wheels, along with the larger sized alloys, can weigh anything up to 20kg a corner with the tyres on, and that’s what’s scientifically know as ‘a lot’. Even an average set of 18-inch alloys can weigh over 12kg a corner. So, do your research and be careful of what aftermarket alloys you choose. The design, construction and materials used can have a huge impact on the overall weight. Problems are always compounded with wheels too, because when they’re rotating, this magnifies the effect of the mass. Some experts say that this can be up to 10-times the original weight and, again, that’s quite a bit of heft pulling your car around.

    Obviously budget is always a consideration here, but forged rims, along with rotary forged (flow formed) wheels will always be the ultimate in lightness over more common cast wheels. OK actually, the ultimate would be full-on carbon fibre wheels, but who’s got the cash lying around to pay 4-grand-plus per corner? We’ll just have to wait for those six little numbers to come in!

    Weight loss: up to 45kg (4 wheels)
    Cost: from £650 (set)
    Start Looking: srbpower.com

    Top 10 ways to make your car lighter

    4) Plastic is pretty fantastic

    Due to its complex chemical makeup, glass is a particularly heavy material – handy for seeing through when you’re driving, but heavy none the less. In fact, the glass in an average hatchback can come in at up to 50kg, and that’s why race cars use polycarbonate windows which weigh up to 60-percent less, are super-strong and are pretty much shatter proof. It’s not common with the Jap stuff of course, but in the wider motoring world, a few production cars run polycarbonate here and there. It’s not just the performance specials either, the first to do this was the Smart Fourtwo, and that was way back in 1998.

    Anyway, the switch to polycarbonate windows also helps lower the centre of gravity for a bonus improvement in handling, they’re also relatively cheap compared to many performance mods out there.

    Everything from replacement windscreens to quarter lights are on the market and with side windows you can often specify race-car style vents and sliders. And,  while you’re at it, take a look at your sunroof – you won’t believe how weighty the glass and mechanism can be there, luckily plenty of these can be replaced too.

    Weight loss: up to 25kg
    Cost: From £80
    Start looking: acwmotorsportplastics.co.uk

    5) Sort your chassis

    You know in The Fast and The Furious when they’re designing that orange Supra and saying using aftermarket suspension can save 10-pounds (4.5kg) a corner? Well they were right. In fact, with the advancements in technology, the savings nowadays can be significantly more, in some cases over 10kg can be saved just by switching to a set of coilovers.

    It doesn’t stop at shocks and springs either, there are loads of other chassis parts that can shave off a few kgs, sometimes a whole lot more. Lightweight adjustable control arms are also a popular choice, especially those super-hardcore alloy jobs you find on many a Honda, simply because they also do a great job of helping you set up your chassis geometry.

    When it comes to your brakes, you may think that big brake conversions will always weigh a whole lot more than standard, but plenty of times that’s just not the case. Nowadays plenty of the top end items will offer quite the saving. Multi-pot alloy brake calipers and discs with alloy bells can weigh a lot less than standard cast iron jobs, and obviously, they’ll work much more effectively too.

    Weight loss: up to 40kg
    Cost: From £150
    Start Looking: bc-racing.co.uk, ksport.co.uk, bilstein.de

    6) Get the body you’ve always dreamed of

    Lightweight panels, particularly fibreglass replacements, have been a racing staple for decades now. In the more hardcore fraternities it’s pretty common to totally replace front ends, or even the whole body, swapping out all the steel panels over a custom-fabricated, lightweight, tubular chassis.

    Of course, we also now have the wonders that are carbon fibre and Kevlar, and everything from bonnets and tailgates, to front wings, bumpers and even complete floor pans are on offer. The best thing is that prices are coming down all the time too.

    That said, always be aware of what you’re buying and, if possible, check the weight first. Some cheaper parts are reinforced with steel structures or seriously thick fibreglass underneath, and that can actually be heavier than the standard part altogether. Be especially mindful of this on cars like Subarus which often come with lightweight aluminium bonnets in the first place. You don’t want to make your car heavier, do you? That’s just defeating the object.

    Weight loss: up to 25kg
    Cost: F Weight loss – anything up to a ton, maybe more!
    Cost from £30
    Start Looking: tarmacsportz.co.uk

    7) Remember it all adds up

    When it comes to standard parts, most are made to a budget, so there’s plenty of areas where shaving off a few grams here and there can add up. Take your standard exhaust manifold, it’s most likely cast iron, a stainless steel tubular replacement will not only save a few kilos, but will improve the gasflow for more power too.

    It can be a modification as small as a lightweight pulley set or racing steering wheel. Then again, it could be as bonkers as a carbon propshaft, aluminium diff or lightweight gearbox housing – it all makes a difference. We’ve even heard of people emptying their washer bottles and keeping their fuel to a minimum on a trackday. It may sound crazy but it makes sense – 3 litres of washer water weighs 3kg while 40-litres of petrol nearly 30kg.

    Of course if you’re looking for the ultimate in lightweight bolt-on performance you could bag yourself a full-on titanium exhaust. Titanium is comparable to steel in strength but has less than half the overall weight. It also looks pretty damn tasty too!

    Weight loss: 200grams to 20kg
    Cost: from £50
    Start Looking: scorpoion-exhausts.co.uk

    Top 10 ways to make your car lighter

    8) Get the right electricals

    Obviously most of us aren’t looking to go that far on a road car, but there are plenty of other easier options. Take your car battery for example. Normal lead-acid items are really, really heavy, but these can easily be replaced with more lightweight units, perhaps even a super-compact racing item if you’re not running too many electrical systems.

    Then there’s the audio. If you like to hear your music properly I’ve always been an advocate of a sound system with a dedicated woofer. But, it’s always worth thinking about the gear you’re fitting – do you really need that 18-inch woofer and 4000Watt amp outside of an SPL competition?

    Some manufacturers have made a massive impact with lightweight audio over the past few years, and nowadays you can get some serious performance and exceptional sound quality out of tiny subs and even tinier amplifiers. Of course there’s also the age-old option of ripping out the standard system altogether, or fitting a compact Bluetooth receiver instead of a headunit. It all works.

    Cost: from £free
    Start Looking: jlaudio.co.uk

    Top 10 ways to make your car lighter

    9) Step away from the fast food!

    Let’s just say that one of the heaviest things in your motor is you. In other words, it’s no use trying to shave 20g off the wiring harness and immediately reaching for that second cheeseburger – take this from a rather portly, salad-dodger who knows!

    If you already look like you’ve been on the cover of Men’s Health then well done you, but the rest of us will probably admit we could all do with being a little fitter. So, maybe getting your laptimes down a bit could be your motivation to dodge a future heart attack? Then again, maybe life’s just too short for eating steamed cabbage anyway!

    Cost: Free

    10)  Don’t put it back on again!

    You have to feel a little sorry for all those F1 engineers. These guys spend all year trying to shave half a gram off a brake caliper, then Lewis Hamilton turns up with a nose ring that probably weights five times that. My point is to be mindful of what you’re putting back in your car – there’s pros and cons for almost everything.

    A roll-cage can add a significant amount of weight but it can also save your life in a smash. Then again, with the rigidity and safety a cage provides, it’s possible to remove a whole lot more metal from the car – along with things like side impact bars.

    Think of it like this, cages always look great but racecars have to have them because of the safety regulations, some drivers would happily do without them just to get the performance edge. I know it’s a random one, but in 1952 NASCAR driver Tim Flock was disqualified from a race for having a cage made from painted wood – how’s that for a serious set of spuds, eh?

    As with any other modification, it’s all about balance, so make sure you thoroughly (excuse the pun) weigh-up your options before you start pulling stuff apart.

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  • FORD FOCUS RS MK3 FAST MODS

    Combining over 160 years of expertise with cutting-edge tuning knowledge, Hendy Performance has developed a modular range of tuning packages for the Ford Focus RS Mk3 that makes it even hotter. Scorchio!

    Ford’s third generation Focus RS is one of the most accomplished hot hatches on the road. Powered by a 345bhp, 2.3-litre four-cylinder engine and endowed with a trick four-wheel drive transmission featuring ‘drift mode’, it is easily a rival for the best in the business and is a car more than worthy of wearing the respected RS badge. But what if you want more out of your Dagenham destroyer? Well, you just have to take a trip over to Hendy Performance to check out their HP 500 kit…

    The HP500 kit is the culmination of a series of modular performance upgrade kits designed by Hendy’s in-house tuning gurus exclusively for the Ford Focus RS Mk3. Each of the modular packages is conceived to address a specific weak point in the standard RS’s arsenal, and also to complement the rest of the upgrades, allowing owners to either work their way up the ladder, or go straight to the top and opt for the complete HP500 kit. However, with all but the final two packs, which need to be completed in strict order to ensure reliability, you are also free to cherry pick which packs you want in any order you want, depending on your specific goals and finances.

    “After evaluating the Ford Focus RS Mk3 we highlighted four distinct areas that we felt we could improve upon,” says Hendy’s John Haylett. “These were: increasing traction and reducing torque steer; adding more power, torque and response; lowering and stiffening the suspension; and adding a more seductive sound track to the exhaust note.”

    And looking at the comprehensive list of quality components that make up each of the Hendy Performance upgrade kits, we reckon they’ve nailed it! Read on to find out what you get for your cash and how you can make your RS a 500bhp+ monster!

    Click on the image below to enlarge. 

    Click to enlarge

    Hendy Performance

    As well as being distributors of more that 36 top tuning brands that cover a full range of makes and models from Mustangs to Mazdas, Hendy Performance can also provide you with top quality spanner work too, including fitting of performance parts through to classic car restorations and trackday preparation.

    Contact: www.hendyperformance.co.uk for more info or to give your Focus RS the HP500 treatment.

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