Tag: Guides

  • AUDI R8 MK1 BUYING GUIDE

    Concept car looks with a mid-mounted and naturally-aspirated engine, plus prices that start below £30,000. The Audi R8 Mk1 was Ingolstadt’s debut supercar and it still makes sense today. Here’s what you need to know before buying one. 

    Feature taken from Fast Car Audi. Words: Emma Woodcook

    Remember 2006? The world was a very different place. Twitter took its first steps that year, the original iPhone was still 12 months way and the Audi range was characterised by understated saloons. That all changed with the launch of the Audi R8 Mk1, a model foretold only by the 2003 Pikes Peak concept and the tantalising shape of Will Smith’s wheels in I, Robot. Rocking revolutionary styling, extensive aluminium construction, a mid-engined layout and a screaming naturally aspirated V8, this was a supercar in every way.

    The Audi quickly gained a media profile to match its Walter de Silva looks. Tony Stark gets behind the wheel in the first Iron Man film, a Decepticon transforms into an Audi R8 in several Transformers films and the model appears in more music videos and TV series than you can count. Put that together with the tech spec and it’s easy to imagine that Audi took aim at top tier manufacturers like Maserati, Ferrari, and Lamborghini.

    Audi R8 Mk1

    And yet there’s no six-figure price tag here. Priced at £76,825, the original 4.2 litre R8 entered the market as a direct competitor for the 997 generation Porsche 911 Carrera S and undercut the BMW M6 and Aston Martin V8 Vantage. Even the far faster, V10-powered R8 5.2 FSI managed to just sneak under the £100,000 barrier. Value has always been a key part of the Audi R8 package and that’s still true today. Good cars start below £30,000. Here’s how to find one.

    Audi R8 Mk1: What do you get?

    The Audi R8 range expanded gradually throughout production, giving today’s buyer plenty of choice. In 2007, it started out simple. A 4.2-litre V8 was the only engine available at launch, making 414bhp at over 8000rpm, with a Lamborghini-derived 5.2-litre V10 joining the range in 2009. Known as the 5.2 FSI, this model makes 525bhp and can be identified by its different headlights, revised front grille, new wheels and twin-outlet exhaust.

    The next big change was body style, Audi unveiling a soft-top Spyder variant in 2010. Equipped with an electrically-operated retractable roof, complete with a rear window that can be dropped separately for maximum volume with the hood up, the new shape also lost the coupé’s sideblades and gained a slatted engine cover. The first Spyders were all 5.2 FSI machines, with the 4.2 FSI joining the drop top range in 2011.

    Audi R8 Mk1

    A facelift shook up the R8 style in 2012. Hard and soft top cars alike gained revised LED lights, subtle styling tweaks and an optional dual-clutch transmission, plus the 4.2 FSI got a power bump to 424bhp. A new range-topper also appeared: the R8 V10 Plus. Key changes over the standard 5.2 include a power jump to 542bhp, bucket seats and model-specific passive suspension. Production of all first-generation cars ended in 2015. It might sound like a bewildering array but the R8 has never strayed far from its fundamentals of naturally-aspirated power, mid-engined agility and striking design. There are no wrong answers here.

    The Audi R8 Mk1 owes part of that remarkable style to its headlamps. The bright white, always on ‘eyelashes’ furthered Audi’s pre-existing commitment to daytime running lights and add a futurist flare that still looks modern today but it’s their technical secrets which really impress. Numbering 24 in total – a figure chosen in reference to the German manufacturer’s contemporary success at the Le Mans 24 Hours – the running lights are all LEDs. That’s pretty normal now but in 2007 it was a revolution. Combined with standard semiconductors for the brake lamps and engine bay lighting, it made the R8 4.2 FSI the most LED-heavy production car in the world.

    Audi didn’t stop there: the firm debuted the world’s first all-LED headlamp units in 2008, and fitted them as standard to all V10 machines. Alongside the previous daytime running light functionality, the new units used a total of 54 clustered diodes per headlamp to handle dipped beam, high beam and front indicator duties. Audi pointed to the design’s advantages in light colour, energy use and durability, before developing a subtly revised system that was fitted to V8 and V10 machines alike after the 2013 facelift.

    Audi R8 Mk1

    Audi champions ‘quattro’ all-wheel drive across its model range, so it’s fitting that every first-generation R8 sends power to both axles. The system mimics that used in related Lamborghini models and uses a viscous coupling to control the proportion of available drive that’s sent to the front wheels. Under normal conditions every R8 enjoys a rear-biased 15:85 front to rear torque split, though this can shift as far as 30:70 when the rear wheels start to slip. There’s a standard rear limited-slip differential too, for predictable over the limit action.

    No matter the engine, transmission or body configuration, running an R8 is going to cost. Every model sits in the highest VED category for the period, attracting a £570 road tax fee each year, and every R8 attracts an ABI insurance category rating of either 49 or 50. Fuel consumption is prolific too, though most owners will be having too much fun to care. Expect to see a little over 20 miles to each gallon in gentle use, mid teens with more enthusiastic use and single figures on tracks. Those figures are largely comparable to Ferrari’s F430 or the Lamborghini Gallardo.

    Servicing

    Audi will service an R8 according to either of two service schedules, depending on the amount and style of driving a car enjoys. Owners who cover more than 10,000 miles in their R8 each year, drive mostly on motorways and keep revs in the first third of the tacho might benefit from the Variable LongLife package. This requires a major Inspection Service every two years or 19,000 miles and leaves the onboard computer to determine when oil changes are needed. Few supercars see this kind of use – the temptations of sound and speed are understandably too much – and most R8s are serviced according to the Fixed Inspection schedule. Under this routine, cars get an oil change every 9000 miles or annually and a major service every 19,000 miles or two years.

    Audi R8 Mk1

    Engine

    No matter which motor you choose, engine issues should be few and far between. High oil usage is a quirk of both the V8 and V10 – so check the level is topped up – but should point to nothing more sinister. A rear oil leak, however, can point to a corroded oil line. It’s a known vulnerability of the model, and one that needs to be put right, but should cost little more than £200 to get fixed.

    As high performance, naturally aspirated engines from the first generation of direct fuel injection, both the 4.2 FSI and 5.2 FSI can become vulnerable to coke build up around the intake valves. This can dramatically reduce power, often blunting peak performance by 10% or more, and requires periodic removal. Chemical options are available but manual cleaning, where the inlet manifold is removed and the coke physically cleared, is the preferred option. This is a time consuming process and costs can easily reach £500 – but the performance benefits are worth it.

    Transmission

    Three different gearboxes are attached to the gen-one R8 platform and they’ve got widely divergent characters, each shining its own light on Audi’s supercar. If you’re not sure which one might suit you, there’s no better way to find out than jumping behind the wheel to see what the transmissions are like in action.

    Old school interests are protected by the only gearbox available for the entire Type 42 production: a three pedal, six-speed manual. The external metal gate echoes classic Ferraris and adds a combination of tactile feedback and click-clack soundtrack that’s hard to resist, helping to make it the most sought-after transmission amongst collectors. Ensure the clutch is correctly adjusted and the gearbox oil changed to schedule and there should be little to worry about.

    More caution should be exercised around the R-Tronic automated manual. Offered between 2006 and the 2013 facelift, this unit places six gears and a single clutch under computer control. R-Tronic is mechanically similar to a manual transmission, so it’s important not to treat the gearbox like a torque converter automatic. Full-throttle upshifts can place extra stress on the driveshafts and differentials, as can activating launch control, while low speed crawling and uphill reversing promote slip and can accelerate clutch wear. If a test drive reveals rising revs at steady speed or a gearbox that’s reluctant to shift, ask for an expert opinion. The transmission might need the clutch adaption points electronically reset or, in the worst case, could require a new clutch. Expect to spend £2000 for a new item, plus fitting.

    More modern is the S-Tronic dual clutch transmission that Audi introduced alongside the 2013 facelift. The seven-speed gearbox is smoother and quicker shifting than its R-Tronic predecessor and works well even in low speed use. A small number of cars suffered issues when new, which Audi fixed under warranty, but ongoing problems are all but unknown. There’s no need to worry about the quattro all-wheel drive system fitted to all first-generation R8 models either.

    Tuning

    The world is your oyster when it comes to tuning an Audi R8. Wide arches, big wings and a vast range of bodykits are all available, including a Radical Tuning bundle that exactly replicates the track-ready changes applied to the wildly successfully GT3 racecar. Wheel options vary from Audi’s own 18 inch winter wheel to the largest rims SEMA exhibitors can get under the arches, and suspension options range from floor-grazing air to hardcore height, rebound and speed adjustable KW Variant 4 coilovers.

    Mild modifications are possible too, some owners modernising earlier cars through the fitment of late-production LED front or rear lights. This can be a daunting DIY job that requires a new control unit, extensive rewiring and deft coding skills, so could be best left to the professionals. Specialist firms can complete the work or offer advice, while aftermarket control units are available for cars built in 2010 onwards. Available from £500 upwards, these devices make the swap far easier.

    Small alterations can also be applied to either thunderous drivetrain. American manufacturers offer a range of dyno-proven cold air intake kits, while Milltek, Larini, Akrapovic and many more exhaust manufacturers can release a premium scream from the V8 and V10. Software experts APR can also release more power through ECU recalibration, claiming gains of 24 horsepower for the V8 and nearly 60bhp for the V10.

    That upswing won’t satiate everyone and there’s a growing market for R8s with forced induction. American firm VF Engineering sells some of the best-known supercharging kits and adds Eaton twin-vortex blowers to both 4.2 and 5.2 litre cars alike. It’s enough to push even the earliest V8s to 600 horsepower and extract over 700bhp from V10 machines, all for barely £15,000 apiece. Closer to home, TTS Performance has developed a twin Rotrex supercharger kit for the 4.2 FSI that makes almost 750bhp…

    If even that won’t scratch your itch, it’s time to look at turbocharging. North Carolina speed freaks Underground Racing boast some of the fastest R8s in their world thanks to a combination of twin turbos, rebuilt engines and race fuel that can net almost 3000 horsepower and an increasing number of British firms are translating the best parts of the concept into road-usable machines. RE Performance and other specialists offer everything from 900bhp V10 builds with stock internals to extensively rebuilt monsters with over 1200bhp!

    Contacts:
    www.tts-performance.co.uk
    www.reperformance.co.uk

    Body

    Bodywork corrosion is becoming an issue as the model ages, with the leading edge of the bonnet and the bottom of both doors commonly effected. Examine any potential purchase for paint peeling or bubbling, both on the outside and inner edges of the vulnerable panels. Keep an eye out for stone chips and check the rear wheelarches too, as these areas can also corrode. Audi offered a 12 year corrosion warranty from new, and all but the earliest cars will still be covered by this guarantee. Pay attention to any dents too, as they can be difficult to remove from the aluminium bodywork.

    If you’re checking out a coupé, examine the model’s trademark sideblades. Stone chips can disrupt the finish on painted items, while the optional carbon fibre blades are vulnerable to damaged or peeling lacquer. This can be fixed but expect a four figure bill for a complete renovation. Some owners also swap between blade styles, a job that can be achieved by a competent home mechanic. Check carefully to ensure the work has been carried out correctly.

    Audi R8 Mk1

    Wheels & Tyres

    Concerns here are limited but it still pays to be careful: some owners report cracked wheels after hitting a deep pothole, while heavily uneven tyre wear points to incorrect or modified geometry settings. Pay close attention to the Tyre Pressure Monitoring System too. If the system displays a warning message when all four tyres have the correct air, this can point to a sensor or battery failure. Expect to spend £100 per corner
    on replacements.

    Staggered 19-inch wheels are standard across the range, with both V8 and V10 cars getting 19×8.5 inch rims with 235-section tyres up front and 19×11 inchers with 295/30 rubber at the rear. Don’t go thinking they’re all the same though. 4.2 and 5.2 cars receive different wheel designs as standard, and Audi offered a range of optional alloys too. Y-shaped PQ1 and five-spoke PQU ‘Rotor’ – could only be ordered on a V10 car. As the two models share a bolt pattern and offset, however, there should be no problem mounting them to a V8 car today.

    Suspension

    Some of the largest concerns for an R8 owner surround the frame and suspension. The aluminium chassis is vulnerable to bimetallic corrosion where it connects with steel bolts and other components, and extreme caution must be exercised over any accident repairs. Check that minor chassis work has been carried out by a reputable expert and walk away from any car exhibiting cracks in the structure. These occur in a very small number of cars after extreme stress and should only be fixed by frame replacement: don’t settle for an R8 where this damage has
    been ignored.

    Be equally vigilant if the car you’re inspecting is fitted with Magnetic Ride Control. This system uses a computer-controlled electromagnetic coil to adjust the strength of a magnetic field inside the damper, forcing tiny metallic elements within the oil into alignment whenever voltage is applied. This increases the viscosity of the fluid, limits the movement of the damper and firms up the car’s response, something the car does both proactively as conditions demand and when a driver selects Sport mode. It’s fitted to most V10 cars as standard and was a cost option for V8 machines.

    It’s clever stuff but the system’s reliability is not absolute. The magnetic fluid can leak from the dampers, a problem that’s even been observed on low mileage cars, and rectification costs are high. Expect to spend £500 per damper for an aftermarket renovation or around £1000 per corner for Audi replacement items.

    Price

    Values vary according to engine, age and general condition. The market opens with early V8 coupés, with robust but high mileage cars ducking below £30,000 and pristine examples starting around £40,000. Expect to spend £5000 more for an equivalent Spyder 4.2 FSI, and £50,000 for an early V10 with or without a roof. The same money buys a facelift V8 hardtop. Over £60,000 buyers have their pick of 2012 onwards V10 and V10 Plus machines.


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  • F56 JCW HATCH BUYING GUIDE

    Having been around since 2015, early F56 JCW hatches are now available from £15,000. Performance MINI magazine is here to tell you what you need to know before buying one.

    First of the fast third-generation F models, was the 192bhp F56 Cooper S, that was available from launch in March 2014. It wasn’t long before MINI was alluding to an even higher performance range-topper, with the John Cooper Works (JCW) Concept making its debut at the start of 2015, at the North American Auto Show in Detroit.

    It might have been called a ‘Concept’, but as we were to find out later on, this MINI actually gave away the unique Aero body kit and alloy wheels of the production version, which had its UK launch in May 2015.

    It is powered by the BMW B48, 2.0-litre, turbocharged, 16-valve engine, also used in the BMW 1-Series, 3-Series, 5-Series and the X3 off-roader. Auto only for the first couple of months of F56 JCW production, the gearbox itself was the same, slick six-speeder as fitted to the rest of the F56 MINI range, but with JCW-specific software. Auto or not, the F56 JCW boasted 228bhp, a licence-losing top speed of 153mph, and 236 lb.ft of torque. Acceleration to 62mph took just 6.1 seconds, yet it was still capable of achieving a 49.6mpg fuel consumption figure.

    The six-speed manual version of the JCW boasts the same 228bhp as the auto, but acceleration to 62mph is 0.2 seconds slower at 6.3, plus it drinks more petrol, with a 42.2mpg figure. Slightly slower and somewhat thirsty, but MINI enthusiasts tend to favour the more involving manual.

    Probably the most interesting development of the F56 JCW hatch, since its launch in 2014, is the Challenge limited edition. Developed by a skunkworks team of MINI engineers at the Oxford factory and journalists from EVO magazine, this JCW was produced as a road version of the UK MINI CHALLENGE race car. As thus, it was fitted with upgrades from suppliers of the race series, including adjustable Nitron coilover dampers, a proper Quaife limited slip differential, plus Team Dynamics wheels with Michelin Pilot tyres. The result was 50 cars sold at £32,000 each, which are highly prized by their owners and are likely to be a future collector’s item.

    The start of 2018 saw the MINI hatch get its mid-life or LCI (Life Cycle Impulse in BMW language) facelift, with trim changes, new colours and more options. You’ll spot a face-lifted F56 JCW by their brighter new front lights with full circular halo DRL and the Union Jack rear lights.

    However, the JCW hatch was only available for a short time after the facelift, as it wouldn’t meet the stricter Euro 6d-TEMP emissions standard, part of changes resulting from the introduction of the Worldwide Harmonised Light Vehicle Test Procedure or WLTP legislation. This meant that the F56 JCW hatch went on an enforced six-month hiatus.

    The latest version, now equipped with a petrol particulate filter, was available from March 2019. At the same time, specifications were enhanced, with Piano Black exterior and interior trim, Dinamica Leather trimmed front bucket sports seats, and 17in Track Spoke alloy wheels all added.

    Want to find out more about the fastest modern MINI hatch? Read on for tips on how to buy the best.

    F56 JCW: What to look for

    Transmission

    All F56 JCW hatches were fitted with six-speed automatic transmission for the first three-months of production, the same gearbox that’s fitted to standard models. However, the fastest MINI auto has JCW specific software, which includes a difficult to engage launch control function. More popular with the hot hatch purists, is the six-speed manual transmission. It is a favourite with enthusiasts, because it’s a more involving drive. There is no standard limited slip differential, instead a clever torque-vectoring traction control system is in place to stop the front wheels spinning. If you’re adding more performance, or going on track, fitting a proper Quaife limited-slip differential is a better option – as the Challenge limited edition proved. Whether you choose automatic or manual transmission, problems are rare, but watch for any modded automatic models, as we have heard of failures on poorly remapped cars.

    Brakes

    Check the documents for evidence of regular brake fluid changes. The massive standard vented discs (335mm at the front!), plus Brembo made four-pot calipers are more than a match for the JCW’s performance, plus upgrades such as performance brake pads are affordable. Check the condition of the discs when buying, especially with the track-focussed Challenge.

    F56 JCW

    Engine

    The F56 JCW is powered by a 2.0-litre B48 turbocharged in-line four, from the same engine family as the rest of the third-generation MINI range launched back in 2014. The B48 is an under-square design, with both the block and head made from aluminium, with other state-of-the-art-features including a twin-scroll turbocharger, direct injection, variable valve lift (Valvetronic) and variable valve timing (Double VANOS). Thankfully, the B48 doesn’t appear to be affected by problematic crank bearing or oil solenoid issues on early F56 Cooper and Cooper S models. In fact, even though it’s easily remapped to over 300bhp, with simple bolt-on supporting upgrdaes – the only mechanical issues we’ve heard of with the B48 were some problems with the injectors and some odd air leaks. However, if you’re buying privately or from an independent dealer, make sure you do the usual checks. Firstly, make sure there’s evidence of regular maintenance in the service book. Then, before you even start it, make sure you check there’s plenty of the black stuff! Engine mods start at £350, from MINI specialist Lohen, for a CravenSpeed induction kit, that not only releases some more horses, but sounds great too. Move up to £1,500 for Lohen’s Performance Pack, which includes a Forge Motorsport performance intercooler, and a Manic Motorsport stage 1 tune, equalling 10 more horses. One of the approved JCW Pro performance parts for the F56 range is the Bluetooth exhaust, which is standard on the Challenge limited edition, but fitted as an accessory elsewhere. It works by opening a flap in the exhaust via remote, to make the fastest MINI a whole lot louder – although its loudest setting is only supposed to be used on the track!

    Suspension

    The JCW hatch’s performance is hot, and its precise steering and entertaining handling go well with this – although the ride on the optional 18in wheels can be a bit firm. This sharp handling is the result of standard MacPherson struts, coil springs, an anti-roll bar and of course the rear Z-axle. Adaptive dampers are a popular option, but the firmest Sport mode is probably best left for the track, as it never feels settled on the road. Thankfully you can mix and match driving modes with dampers settings The standard passive dampers are as stiff, but are probably better for modification. The JCW hatch’s handling is also susceptible to tyre choice, the OEM Pirelli tyres are least favoured by owners. The Challenge limited edition shows what modifications could be done, with the standard fit adjustable Nitron coilover dampers. Coilovers will also fix the standard JCW hatch’s lofty stance – especially at the front.

    F56 JCW

    Body

    Outside, the biggest giveaway that you’re looking at the F56 JCW is the amount of grilles! On top of the meshed-style upper and lower front ones, the JCW does away with the fog lights, that space taken up with an extra pair. The one on the nearside actually functioning to keep the uprated version of the 2.0-litre, four-cylinder engine, already powering the Cooper S, cool. Still, the large LED front headlights are powerful enough for you not to miss the fogs. Elsewhere, at the side, there are colour-coded side skirts. At the back, like the front there are more grilles on each of the edges of the rear apron. Plus, the chrome-tipped centre exit exhaust, large rear spoiler and LED rear lights. There are also unique colours and combinations via the MINI Individual programme, and more popular colours such as Rebel Green, which almost looks black in some lights. The Challenge limited edition is identified by its carbon fibre details, such as the mirror caps, plus the White Silver paint, combined with a black roof and black viper stripes.

    The 2018 MINI hatch LCI facelift, has new front and rear lights, trim changes, new colours such as Solaris Orange and more options including  the Piano Black exterior pack, that eventually became standard. With the oldest F56 JCW just four-years old, rust isn’t a problem on this MINI, but watch for misted headlights.

    F56 JCW

    Interior

    Inside, MINI worked hard to improve the premium feel to the F56 hatch’s interior. The soft-touch plastics and interior trim finishes are the equal of any model from BMW. After the dinner-plate sized speedo of the R56, the biggest change is in fact that the speedo has moved from the centre of the dash and been combined with the steering column mounted rev counter. However, speedo or not, the central circular design theme continues with the F56. Although it’s replaced by a central colour screen, that now houses the infotainment system. You’ll either smile or frown at the emotion LED lights that change colour and pattern according to function or speed. The extra 28 millimetres on the wheelbase means more room, but access is still tight. There’s also a 211-litre boot – up 61 over the R56. The extra space is noticeable and there’s also a clever adjustable boot floor too. There are two types of sports seats, although the single-piece, optional high-backed style are more supportive in our opinion. Interior issues are few, but be aware of door seals that can rub the paint off the door shuts and squeaking front seats.

    Electrics

    As you’d expect for a four-year old MINI, electrical problems are rare – but not unheard of. We are aware of a few isolated cases of issues with the sat-nav system. More common, are problems with the horn push not working. This is located in the centre of the steering wheel with the airbag.

    Identity

    The fact that the F56 JCW hatch pushes out almost 230bhp, makes it most attractive to thieves. So, make sure you still do all the proper checks before buying. Once you’ve checked that the VIN on the logbook matches the one in the windscreen, then we’d suggest investing in a proper history report before handing over any cash – especially if you’re buying privately! The last thing you need, is to find out later, that it has been stolen, written-off, or has finance outstanding.

    F56 JCW

    How much to pay?

    £14,000 – £20,000

    This is the starting point for F56 JCW hatches, with mileages up to 60,000. Earliest cars are from 2015, but 2016 and 2017 models fall into this category too.

    £20,000- £25,000

    Later, lower mileage 2016, 2017 cars are here, plus lower spec LCI facelift cars from 2018.

    £25,000 – £30,000

    Higher spec, LCI facelift 2018 and 2019 cars start here. Super rare, lowest mileage, Challenge limited edition models start at around £28,000, at independents, with under 10,000 miles.

    £30,000 – £40,000

    Delivery mileage, highest spec 2018 and 2019 cars start at £30,000 and max out at £40,000.

    Where to buy one

    The oldest, highest mileage F56 JCW hatches are only four-years old and those with about 70,000 miles-plus are likely to be the only cars outside of the official MINI Cherished used car system.  There’s no more power, but if you go for a later LCI facelift car, you get the better headlights, an improved infotainment system with Apple CarPlay, and the opinion dividing Union Jack rear lights. We’d suggest you buy any F56 JCW hatch prioritising on condition, specification, and then colour.

    Insurance costs

    The insurance group for a pre-facelift F56 JCW hatch is 29, rising to 30 for post-facelift models. Deals on standard cars can be found on comparison sites, but modified cars or the best levels of cover, speak to specialist insurers such as Graham Sykes.

    Words: Martyn Collins 

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  • BMW E36 3-SERIES BUYING GUIDE

    Brought to you by the writers of Performance BMW, here’s your quick no nonsense BMW E36 3-Series buying guide.

    BMW E36 3-Series: Why?

    While it may have lost the E30’s classic styling and iconic looks, the BMW E36 3-Series was a huge step up over its predecessor on all fronts. Far more modern, better to drive, safer and more practical, it was arguably one of the biggest leaps forward in terms of 3 Series evolution; nowadays it’s starting to get the love it deserves and this is a great BMW to own, drive and mod.

    BMW E36 3-SeriesBMW E36 3-Series

    The ones you want

    As with the BMW E30, you’ve got a lot of different body styles to choose from and, honestly, the E36 wears them all well, though for us the coupé and Touring are the best of the bunch, but you’d be happy with any of them. Enginewise, again, there’s a lot to choose from here but it’s the sixes that get our vote, though the 318iS is also worth a look. The 328i is without doubt the pick of the bunch, thanks to that muscular straight-six, but the 325i is also worth a look and the M50 has the added bonus of not being affected by the Nikasil problems that plagued the later engines.

    What to pay

    The good news is that E36s are very cheap and this is one of the most affordable ways into any BMW. £1350 will get you behind the wheel of an 80k-mile 328i Convertible, you can get yourself a 320i SE Saloon with 85k miles for £1500, or a 318iS for £1520. We also found an 80,000-mile 325i Coupé for £1650, a 150k-mile 323i Touring for £1800, a 323i Saloon for £2k, and around £3000 will get you into a 328i Sport with more examples to choose from as you get up to £4000, with the best low-mileage cars sitting at around the £6k-range.

    BMW E36 3-SeriesBMW E36 3-Series

    The good stuff

    The E36 has a classic look all of its own and if you grew up in the ’90s then the styling will no doubt have you feeling all nostalgic. While it might not be as iconic a design as some of BM’s other offerings, there’s definitely something appealing about those business-like lines and it’s undoubtedly a smart-looking car. The chassis is sharp, a significant step up from the E30, and the E36 feels nicely balanced and is genuinely fun to drive thanks to the fancy Z-axle multi-link rear suspension, especially when you feed that chassis enough power to really take advantage of its talents. It’s an engaging, entertaining car and there’s a lot to like and enjoy here.

    The bad stuff

    When it was launched the BMW E36 3-Series was somewhat notorious for its flaky build quality and while this was improved in 1994, it’s still not the most solid BMW you can buy, so expect some interior niggles. Beyond that, rust is now an issue at this age and while it’s not as bad as some of the older cars here, there are still a number of areas to inspect when looking at an E36. The main rust hot spots are the inner front wings and turret welds, inside of the boot and under the battery, the boot lip under the seal, the windscreen housing, the bottoms of the doors and the front and rear wings rust from the inside, along with the front and rear subframes. In addition to that, M52 engines were affected by the Nikasil problems, plastic water pump impellers fail, clutch judder is a common problem, M42 timing case profile gaskets get eaten away and exhaust manifolds crack on the 318iS.

    BMW E36 3-SeriesBMW E36 3-Series

    Modding potential

    As with all 3 Series models, there’s an awful lot that can be done to the E36 and its popularity on the scene means there’s a wealth of mods available for it. In terms of styling, Sport or M3 body kits always look good and you’ve got plenty of splitters and spoilers to choose from that you can add to that, as well as a huge selection of wheels. As far as interior mods go, it’s all about the Vader seats from the M3, and the good news is that they bolt straight in. Engine-wise, you can supercharge the M42 and M44 to get decent gains, you can do an M50 manifold swap on the M52, but if you want serious gains then it’s all about the M50 as that engine was born for boost.

    We say

    The E36 is ageing well and values are slowly creeping up, so now is a good time to slide into one of these modern classics. It might not be BMW’s best effort in terms of build quality and rust is an issue, but it’s great to drive and has massive modding potential, making it a great retro BM that won’t break the bank.

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