Tag: Guides

  • FORD MUSTANG S550 BUYING GUIDE

    Always fancied a Ford Mustang, but never wanted to drive a LHD car in the UK? Well, since the arrival of the S550 you can now have a proper UK-spec, RHD Mustang. Here’s what to look for when buying one…

    Guide first appeared in Fast Ford. Words: Dan Williamson. Photos: Matt Dear

    Be honest: is a Ford Mustang S550 on your wish-list of must-have Fords? No? Not tempted by a thunderous V8 and sub-five-second 0-to-60mph sprint? Not enthralled by a rapidly-growing tuning market producing 1000bhp conversions, making the ‘Stang a serious Blue Oval alternative to a Nissan GT-R?

    Of course you are. And rightly so. With official UK right-hand-drive imports starting in 2015 and so many Mustangs stampeding onto the used-car market, there’s never been a better time to jump on board.

    Best of all, you don’t need to wave a star-spangled banner to get behind the wheel – because, with a few choice upgrades,  the Ford Mustang S550 is good enough to compete with European rivals. And it makes a genuine (albeit left-field) alternative to that Focus RS you’ve been promising yourself.

    The Ford Mustang S550 previewed in the USA in December 2013, beginning production at Ford’s Flat Rock factory in Michigan the following summer. Boasting fabulously aggressive styling, the new machine was offered with a choice of four-cylinder, V6 and V8 engines, manual or automatic transmission, two-door coupé (so-called fastback) or convertible bodystyles and a variety of trim levels. Unlike its predecessor (the S197), the 2015 MY (model year) Mustang featured independent rear suspension and – for the first time – a factory-built option of right-hand drive.

    The 2015 UK launch offered four-pot or V8 power (the latter badged as GT), tin-top or drop-top, and Performance Pack as standard. There was an optional Custom Pack and broad choice of colours.

    A facelifted Mustang was announced in April 2018, sporting LED headlamps, a more powerful V8, a ten-speed automatic and several new option packs. The four-cylinder Mustang continued alongside the GT, but it’s the V8 that attracts punters, and it’s the motor Fast Ford recommends.

    Here’s how to get your hands on some throbbing muscle…

    Ford Mustang S550

    Ford Mustang S550 buyer’s guide

    Engine & Transmission

    It has to be a V8. Yes, the UK-supplied Mustang was offered with a 2.3-litre turbocharged EcoBoost (and you’ll find some left-hand-drive imports with the US-spec 3.7-litre Cyclone V6), but it’s the 5.0 Coyote V8 that attracts two thirds of customers – and it’s what this buying guide is about.

    Not that there’s anything wrong with the 2.3 (it powers the Focus RS, after all). It’s just that the V8 is the traditional Mustang motor; it’s in the DNA. And if you’re going to buy a big, hefty Yank bruiser, it only makes sense to opt for all-out muscle.

    The Ford Mustang S550 uses the Coyote engine was carried over from the previous Mustang, but it’s a thoroughly modern unit, featuring reinforced alloy block, four-valve cylinder heads and twin independent variable cam timing (Ti-VCT). It’s also pretty much bombproof.

    The Coyote was improved for 2018 with increased capacity, plasma-coated liners instead of traditional sleeves, higher compression ratio, bigger valves, direct fuel injection, revised intake runners and raised rev limit. Power increased from 412bhp to 443bhp, although you’ll struggle to feel the difference.

    What you will notice – on a standard car – is the sound quality: pre-facelift GTs had an underwhelming exhaust note but 2018 machines gained a brilliant quad-pipe active-valve system that lets drivers adjust the volume via a dashboard menu. By now, most pre-facelifts have had an aftermarket exhaust fitted, but if not you’ll need to budget for buying one – essential for any car enthusiast.

    Indeed, it’s normal to find modifications on any Mustang because it’s what they’re built for: 500bhp-plus is easily achievable normally-aspirated, although many ‘Stangs are supercharged. The Coyote will handle 750bhp without a hitch, and Ben at Motorsport And Performance reckons, “It’s not working hard, so it will take upto 1000bhp with stock pistons and rods.”

    Beware when buying, though, because exaggerated outputs are commonplace; unless you’re very familiar with Mustangs you could believe a 700bhp car has a claimed 800bhp or more. Check receipts for who’s done the work.

    Problems? There are few. Early (2015-to-2016) cars had a potential oil cooler issue, when it ruptures and dumps the engine oil externally (onto the floor, or potentially onto hot components) or internally, into the cooling system. Either way, the motor will be wrecked, you won’t know until it’s too late, and you’ll face a £10k bill.

    It’s rare but it’s possible (especially on hard-used cars), and most would have already been fixed under the three-year/60,000-mile Ford warranty. But if you’re buying an early car, invest in an aftermarket oil cooler kit (about £600) for peace of mind.

    The Ford Mustang S550 are also prone to tapping from the engine – mainly at idle but sometimes though the rev range. Light ticking is sometimes caused by loose cables and heat shields, but more commonly there’s a noise from the bottom-end that sounds like a worn bearing.

    Technically it’s fine, and the official Ford answer is to ignore it. Some engines have been stripped to search for the source, only to find nothing wrong, while others (the Coyote has been around since 2011) have covered high mileages while ticking.

    If anything, the problem seems to occur after an oil change; Ben uses Millers Nanodrive 0w20 (5w40 on supercharged cars), and he’s never had any ticking…

    Change the oil annually or whenever the display advises (service intervals are one year/10,000 miles), swap the spark plugs at 30,000 miles (much less in a big-power machine), and spend the rest of your cash on pursuing power.

    Ford Mustang S550

    Now the question is manual or automatic? Fast Ford would choose the stick-shift, but the auto is still rated as a driver’s car, and all ‘boxes are ultra-tough.

    Manual Mustangs have the Getrag MT-82 six-speed, which received a duff reputation in the S197 Mustang for poor feel and breakages. Thankfully, the S550 version is much better, and few faults have been reported.

    Ford issued a TSB (technical service bulletin) after some pre-June 2016 manual-transmission Mustangs wouldn’t crank the engine due to a damaged clutch pedal position switch – not the sort of fault you’ll find when buying used.

    A revised manual ‘box (MT82-D4) was fitted for the 2018 facelift, with fresh gear ratios, larger synchro rings and dual-disc clutch. Some hard-driven cars exhibit problems with their aluminium shift forks on third and fourth gear snapping off; Ford fixed the problem pretty quickly, but check the gearchange on an early 2018 machine feels smooth.

    The gearbox is otherwise strong, and even the stock clutch will handle serious power for a while, but it can be killed by bad drivers – and it’s a four-figure job to replace. The first sign is a high biting point on the clutch pedal; if there’s any sign of slipping (you’ll be able to tell immediately, with all that V8 torque) it’s already failed.

    According to Spencer at Haynes Ford, automatic Mustangs make up around three-quarters of UK sales. Early versions had a six-speed version of Ford’s ZF-based gearbox, the 6R80. The 2018 facelift introduced the ten-speed update, the Ford-GM 10R80, which although not a dual-clutch design, does a damn good job of out-dragging its manual counterpart: quoted figures are a standing quarter-mile in 11.8 seconds (a whole second quicker than the manual). Autoboxes are reckoned to be good for 1000bhp.

    Check the six-speed auto doesn’t clunk when going from neutral to drive or reverse, which will need the front transmission flange to be replaced.

    Listen for vibrations, humming and rumbling from 40 to 60mph, which suggest an imbalanced driveshaft, although could also result from worn wheel bearings or tyres. Robbie from Steeda reckons some Mustangs have noisy differentials (UK cars feature the Torsen T-2R from the American Performance Pack 1), although it’s nothing to worry about. Half-shafts, he says, are the weakest point of the transmission: for street use they’re fine, but have been known to snap on the strip.

    Ford Mustang S550

    Chassis

    You’ve seen the YouTube clips and heard the jokes: the Mustang-crashing-into-a-crowd scenario is a very real phenomenon. Partly it’s because showing off comes hand-in-hand with driving a muscle car, and mainly because many Mustang drivers aren’t familiar with powerful rear-wheel-drive machinery. Another factor is that, although the S550 is the first Mustang with independent rear suspension, it’s not exactly a sporty setup.

    “The suspension can’t deal with 400bhp, let alone 700bhp,” says Robbie, “it’ll be straight into a hedge.”

    Although British Mustangs have the Performance Pack settings as standard, it’s very soft and vague. Poor alignment from the factory means the rear subframe can be so far to the left or right that, if spacers are fitted, you’ll notice wheels sticking out more on one side than the other.

    Ben says Steeda’s IRS Base Pack is a must-have modification, even if you do nothing more than drive to the shops. By filling oversized bolt hole with void bushes, it takes the slop out of the suspension – which means you can feel what the rear end is doing. Add a set of lowering springs and subframe support bushes and your bill will be almost £1000, but you’ll need to budget for it if your previous car was an ST or RS – or you’ll be very disappointed.

    Suspension upgrades will also help to eliminate wheel hop, for which the Mustang is commonly criticised. Again, factor the modifications into your budget before buying the car.

    There are few suspension problems to be aware of, although it’s worth listening for rumbling from the rear wheel bearings, which can fail prematurely.

    Be prepared for rear tyres to suffer a similar fate, and avoid anything wearing cheap budget-spec rubber. Robbie recommends the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S, which suits UK roads and helps to reduce wheel hop too.

    Finally, don’t assume any facelifted Ford Mustang S550 will feature fancy MagneRide damping, which adapts to road conditions – it’s a £1600 optional extra, but reckoned to be worth the outlay.

    In the States, the Mustang isn’t such a big deal. The base model is a hire car; a shopping car; a car for middle-class families to give to 16-year-old kids for driving lessons; the basis for track cars and show cars where all the stock stuff is simply thrown away.

    Thankfully, the UK didn’t receive the basic Mustang (apart from a few pre-official imports), and all British GTs include Ford’s Performance Pack 1 as standard – which provides whopping Brembo six-pot front calipers and 380x34mm discs, plus 330x25mm ventilated rear discs with floating callipers.

    As you can imagine, they’re very good for street and track days, although you may find enthusiastic owners have swapped the heavy front anchors for lightweight two-piece discs. You might also see the pads are worn; thankfully, they’ re non-exotic prices.

    It’s unlikely you’ll notice any issues with the brakes, albeit some pads tend to squeal more than others. A heavily-used Mustang might exhibit juddering through the pedal due to contaminated discs/pads in need of replacement.

    An electronic line lock is found on all GTs, which lets the driver spin the rear wheels while stationary by applying the front brakes. But don’t get excited because it’s just a party trick and useless unless you’re at a drag strip.

    Interior

    It’s no AMG. And, to be honest, it’s no Vignale. But the Mustang’s cabin makes a good effort at looking exciting, even if it’s not exactly a premium product.

    There are shiny switches and leather-clad seats. And, of course, that iconic pony emblem on the steering wheel (unless you’re lucky enough to bag a Bullitt, which has its own evocative design).

    Sadly, it’s all built down to a price. Those switches are silver-painted plastic, and many owners are disappointed by the Mustang’s build quality. Early cars are particularly prone to cockpit rattles, squeaks and vibrations. Some have even been supplied with mismatched parts.

    Pre-facelift S550s were supplied with one trim level plus optional climate-controlled heated seats, which were also included in the popular Custom Pack.

    Facelifted cars gained better-quality cabin materials, aluminium door handles and more options: Ebony leather Recaro seats (fastback only; nice but rare), climate controlled seats, or a choice of four Custom Packs (which include hand-stitched centre console and climate-controlled seats). If you care about resale value, be sure to buy a car with a Custom Pack. Facelifted machines are also said to rattle much less, and feel that bit more luxurious.

    You’ll not find a lot wrong with Ford Mustang S550 electrics. Puddle lights in the door mirrors are prone to breaking due to moisture (often fixed under warranty), and there was a recall in January 2019 due to a fire risk from the battery wiring harness, which runs too close to the exhaust manifold and needs insulating; check it’s been fixed.

    Several cars have had faults with the air conditioning condenser, so ensure it all works. Dual-zone climate control is standard.

    Some owners also report difficulties with the audio system’s DAB radio and connectivity. Early models were fitted with Ford’s SYNC 2 8in colour touch-screen, but from April 2015 gained the preferable SYNC 3.

    Surprisingly, satellite navigation wasn’t standard-fit but included in various Custom Packs – a car without nav is worth less. The pre-facelift Custom Pack included Shaker Pro premium audio system with satellite navigation and reverse parking sensors, while 2018 Custom Packs added sat nav and 12-speaker B&O sound system.

    The facelift also introduced an LED instrument cluster, which many buyers are keen to acquire; fortunately it’s not a deal-breaker, because it’s an achievable upgrade for earlier cars. Not so the 2018 LED tri-bar headlamps in place of the original HID xenons, which involve cracking open lights and lots of rewiring.

    Ford Mustang S550

    Style

    Make no mistake: the Mustang is a big car. If you normally drive a Fiesta you could be surprised by the Yank’s bulk. And – not that we’d expect any Fast Ford reader to fall into this trap – make sure it fits your garage before signing on the dotted line…

    If you want a Mustang fastback rather than convertible (eight-out-of-ten buyers do), you’ll have a wider choice on the used market. Drop-tops are a couple of grand more expensive new, but second-hand prices level out.

    Colour choice will be important too. Race Red is most popular in the UK (specified on around a fifth of cars), with greys and blacks similarly sought-after. If you want a lairy shade (such as Need For Green) it may take longer to find, but you’ll be rewarded with something mighty special.

    Facelifted Mustangs (in the UK from around April 2018) had new colours (including White Platinum, Grabber Blue and Lightning Blue); they also tend to be better bolted-together.

    Many owners of pre-facelift cars complain of dodgy panel gaps, particularly at the front and rear bumpers but also around the bonnet, front panel, sills, rear quarters, boot lid, rear window, lights, fuel cap and doors (which may also drop when opened). Convertible tops often look askew when raised.

    Some Mustang are so bad they look like they’ve been rolled down the road – yet it’s simply due to poor quality control in America. Occasionally the misalignment is wide by a couple of millimetres; often it’s so bad that panels are rubbing together. Compare a few different Mustangs to check.

    Obviously, it’s vital to inspect any car for accident damage, such as creased inner wings and floorpan; being rear-wheel-drive, it’s best to check a Mustang’s boot floor and rear quarters – behind any trim if needs be.

    To make matters worse, the paintwork on some cars is shoddy, with runs from the factory, and scuffs and dents from transportation; rear spoilers and other plastics may also be off-shade.

    Facelift cars don’t seem so bad, although there was a 2018 recall for a towing eye with the wrong thread. Nothing to worry about.

    Mustangs come with a lengthy anti-perforation warranty (often meaningless when attempting to make a claim from…), but some ‘Stangs have already exhibited rust bubbles on the wheelarches and the edges of the bonnet.

    Bear in mind that factory anti-corrosion treatment leaves a lot to be desired, and Ben recommends treating the floorpan to high-quality underseal. Otherwise, a few years of salted winter roads will spell trouble.

    Choose a car with Custom Pack. The pre-facelift pack included chrome window surrounds (fastback only) and Lustre Nickel finish to the multi-spoke 19in rims. Facelift Custom Pack 1 is the same but Custom Pack 2 features black 19in alloys and no chrome; Custom Pack 3 includes 19in forged alloys plus chrome surrounds, and Custom Pack 4 looks the same but without the bling.

    Ford Mustang S550

    Identity

    Keyless entry and push-button start: great to have, but an invitation to thieving scum. It’s standard on all S550s, so consider it an advantage if the car you’re buying has additional security measures installed. It also means you’ll need to be vigilant when it comes to cross-checking the VIN (vehicle identification number) on the logbook with the number in the windscreen, under a flap in the carpet beneath the driver’s seat and on a sticker on the driver’s-side B-pillar.

    Naturally, with a car of this value it’s essential to invest in a full history check to ensure there’s no outstanding finance or hidden accident damage.

    It’s also wise to familiarise yourself with what’s on the market: left-hand-drive Mustangs are likely to be lower-specced than official UK cars, and – unless it’s something awesome such as a Shelby –  are best avoided. The facelifted Mustang of April 2018 fetches more money (and rightly so) thanks to a whole host of improvements; it’s recognisable from its lower nose with LED headlights and more aggressive front bumper.

    It’s also worth looking out for a special edition such as the 2016 Shadow Edition (Race Red or Grabber Blue with black pony grille emblem, black Y-spoke alloys, Custom Pack and optional black roof) or the 55 Edition of 2019 (stripes, black grille, black roof, Custom Pack, unique black alloys and optional rear spoiler). Such Mustangs really are limited-runs (even Mustang main dealer Haynes Ford has single-figure allocations).

    Of course, it’s the legendary Bullitt that gets most attention. Fastback/manual only, it boasts more power (thanks to GT350 Open Air Induction System, 87mm throttle bodies and remap), heavy-duty front springs and rear anti-roll bar, black Torq Thrust-type five-spoke alloys, red Brembos, debadged grille, Recaro seats with green details, and cue-ball gearknob. Paintwork is McQueen’s choice of Dark Highland Green, but Shadow Black is available on later cars. The first batch of 2018 sold out almost immediately, so Ford extended production into 2020. Worth having? Oh yes!

    Want to know how to get the most performance from your Ford Mustang S550? You can check out our tuning guide right here.

    Ford Mustang S550

    Tech Spec: Ford Mustang S550

    Engine:  

    Coyote 4951cc (2018-on: 5038cc) DOHC 32-valve V8 with aluminium block and heads, cast aluminium pistons, forged steel con rods, 11:1 compression ratio (2018-on: 12:1), sequential multi-port fuel injection (2018-on: direct injection), stainless steel tubular exhaust manifolds and twin-exit system (2018-on: Active Valve performance exhaust with quad tailpipes)

    Transmission:

    Rear-wheel drive with Getrag MT-82 six-speed manual gearbox or 6R80 six-speed automatic (2018-on: 10R80 ten-speed automatic) gearbox with paddle shifters, Torsen T-2R limited slip differential, final drive ratio: 3.55:1, electronic launch control

    Suspension:

    Front: double-ball-joint independent MacPherson strut and tubular anti-roll bar; rear: integral-link independent with coil springs, monotube dampers and anti-roll bar. Bullitt with uprated spring and anti-roll bar

    Brakes:

    Front: 380mm ventilated discs with Brembo six-piston callipers; rear: 330mm ventilated discs with floating callipers; ABS, AdvanceTrac electronic stability control, electronic line-lock

    Wheels & Tyres:

    Front: 9x19in alloys and 255/40×19 tyres; rear: 9.5x19in alloys and 275/40×19 tyres

    Exterior:

    Unitary steel two-door coupé or convertible with aluminium bonnet and front wings, auto HID (2015-2017) or LED (2018-on) headlamps, heated power-folding door mirrors, LED tail lights, rain-sensing wipers, GT grille and badging. Colours include Competition Orange, Race Red, Oxford White, Absolute Black, Deep Impact Blue, Guard Grey, Magnetic, Ingot Silver, Ruby Red, Triple Yellow, Shadow Black, Velocity Blue, Iconic Silver, Kona Blue, Grabber Lime, Twister Orange, Lucid Red, Need For Green, Orange Fury, Dark Highland Green

    Interior:

    Electrically-adjustable front seats, leather upholstery, colour touch-screen SYNC stereo with nine speakers, rear camera, dual-zone climate control, KeyFree with PowerStart button, MyColour ambient interior lighting. Optional Recaro seats (not convertible) or climate-control heated/cooled seats

    Ford Mustang S550 performance stats

    Made: 2015-present

    Price when new: £32,995-£51,045

    Price now: £19,000-£60,000-plus

    Power: 2015-2017: 412bhp @ 6500rpm; 2018-on: 443bhp @ 7000rpm; Bullitt: 453bhp @ 7250rpm

    Torque: 2015-2017: 386Ib/ft @4250rpm; 2018-on: 390lb.ft @ 4650rpm

    Top speed: 155mph (Bullitt: 163mph)

    0-62mph: 4.3-4.8 seconds

    Source

  • PHOTOSHOP TUTORIAL FOR BEGINNERS

    No matter how good your photography skills may be, a bit of digital tweaking can completely transform your shots. This Photoshop tutorial for beginners will get you started on turning simple car photos into automotive masterpieces.

    First appeared in Performance BMW. Words & Photos: Rich Pearce

    During the lockdown we’ve all had to learn new ways of keeping ourselves busy, ways to pass the time and hopefully feel in, some way, productive afterwards… Back at the start of the lockdown, I made a decision to learn new skills and enhance existing ones, concentrating on Adobe Photoshop. Now, I don’t declare myself as being an expert, but I’ve learnt a lot in my time, and am happy sharing with others, so they can have a go and see what they can create.

    You’ll likely already have seen my photography gracing the pages of Performance BMW and other magazines before, but if you want to see more head to my website www.richpearce.co.uk or my Instagram @richpearcephoto; also once you’re done with the tutorial, be sure to tag me in your finished photo on Instagram.

    For anybody that doesn’t know, Adobe Photoshop is the leader in software for digital image manipulation. You can create just about anything your imagination can conjure up with this neat bit of software. Pretty much all major companies and brands will have used Photoshop to create logos, marketing material, adverts etc. Car companies, including BMW, will use professionals to create their eye-catching images for new car launches, images that are seen all around the world, and these images are likely to have been manipulated in some way in Photoshop. If you don’t have Photoshop, Adobe offers subscription-based access to all their products, via their Creative Cloud service. Have a look on their website, and you can even try the software for free.

    In this Photoshop tutorial for beginners, I’ll show you how to use an image of any car, and place it into a scene somewhere completely different. With practice, you’ll be able to create an image that is so clean and polished that the viewer will believe the car was photographed there. I’m using an image of an M4 Coupé that I originally photographed in a wooded area for a previous issue of PBMW.

    Step by step photoshop tutorial for beginners

    Photoshop tutorial for beginners

    Step 1

    With your image open in Photoshop, the first thing is to cut the car out of the original shot. To do this, I prefer to use the pen tool, which works by joining anchor points all around the car to make a selection. The more care is taken here, to select close around the lines of the car and shadow, the greater the benefit will be later on. Once the whole car has been drawn around, make your selection by right-clicking and selecting ‘Make Selection’.

    Photoshop tutorial for beginners

    Step 2

    Now create a new layer with the car cut out from the background; to do this go to ‘Layer’, ‘New’ and ‘Layer Via Cut’. Tip: when creating new layers, always name them so you know what they are for. This can be done by clicking on the name in the layers panel to the right.

    Step 3

    After this, you’ll have a new layer with just the car cut out, so hide the other layers by clicking the eye icon on your layers panel on the right.

    Step 4

    Next up, you’ll need your new background for the shot. When choosing this, keep in mind how the car photo has been lit, so which direction light is coming from, and the angle that the car has been photographed from; if you get these wrong, the car will never appear to sit properly in the new image. The background image can be something you’ve photographed or an image you’ve sourced online, just make sure the image is of good quality to avoid it looking pixelated.

    Step 5

    Now add the new image to a new layer in Photoshop (below the car layer); to create a new layer click the ‘Create A New Layer’ icon at the bottom right  , now size and position the image to what looks good (this can be the hardest part!). When done, you’ll have something that looks like this below:

    Photoshop tutorial for beginners

    Step 6

    Next is to cut out the areas in windows that show the original background, so in this image the area of the windscreen that shows background needs to be selected and cut out in the same way that we did the car, with the pen tool. Tip: when making selections, it’s best to save the selection in the ‘Select’ tab at the top, so that you can bring up the same selection easily later on if required.

    Step 7

    Once the windscreen is clear with the background showing through, you’ll usually need to colour blend that area, to match the edges of the windscreen that haven’t been cut out. To do this, on a new blank layer above the car layer, load your windscreen selection again, and colour in this area as needed with the brush tool  on a low opacity setting. Once this is done, you can merge your windscreen colour layer with the car layer, simply by selecting those two layers on the right layers panel, and right-clicking and selecting ‘Merge Layers’.

    Step 8

    At this point, I find it best to adjust the colour hue and saturation levels of the car, to closer match the background. This is another way of further blending the car into the environment. To do this create a ‘Hue/Saturation’ layer above your car layer, and ‘Create Clipping Mask’ to this layer, doing this will ensure any changes only affect the car layer.

    Photoshop tutorial for beginners

    Step 9

    After all this is done, now it’s down to the finer touches to blend the car into the scene. This includes adding shadows and reflections on the floor, removing unwanted reflections in the car’s paintwork, plus using the dodge tool and burn tools, you can emphasise the car’s shape with highlights and shadows. This section takes a lot of trial and error, finding what works so it will take some time and practice to get right and it’s too involved to be able to go into detail here. Tip: head to YouTube for individual tutorials on doing this.

    Step 10

    To finish, I add some colour grading to the image – this is what gives it its overall feel and look in terms of the colour throughout the image. This can be done in Photoshop using ‘Hue/Saturation’ layers, ‘Color Balance’ layers or a ‘Color Lookup’ layer. Or, if preferred, you can also save the image in Photoshop, then open it in Adobe Lightroom and edit it there. Here is what my stack of layers looks like on the final image:

    The end result

    After all that work, hopefully, your finished image should look a little something like this – congratulations, you just Photoshopped your car! If you decide to show off your efforts on Instagram then make sure you tag me, and now there are only two things left to do – first of all, sit back and admire your work and, secondly, keep practising to improve your skills! Good luck! We hope you enjoyed this Photoshop tutorial for beginners.

    Photoshop tutorial for beginners

    Photoshop learning resources

    Anyone who’s tried using Photoshop before knows just how mind-blowingly complex it appears at first! It’s only after many, many hours spent practising that it becomes a bit more friendly. I feel it helps to remember to just take it one step at a time, it’s made up of 100s of separate different tools, so just learn them one-by-one, when you need them!

    We live in the best time ever to learn new computer-based skills, with sources all over the Internet that will help you, and best of all, most of them are free! I’ll share with you a couple of resources that have helped me immensely through the years, both on YouTube, so open a separate browser window while Photoshop is open, and jump in and out as needed. Search for the channels Phlearn and PiXimperfect.

    Source

  • FORD COSWORTH YB ENGINE GUIDE

    The Ford Cosworth YB engine is one of the most tuneable motors that Ford has ever produced, so let’s take a look at how to extract those impressive power figures from the mighty Cossie motor…

    Guide from Fast Ford. Words: Jamie King.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine History

    The story of the Ford Cosworth YB engine starts long before the arrival of the Sierra Cosworth in 1985, although that was the first time we saw it in all its road-going glory. In fact, the start of the tale can be traced right back to the end of the 1970s and early 1980s.

    Despite dominating circuit racing and rallying throughout the 1970s, Ford’s grip on motorsport was loosening, and fast. Even the mighty DFV Formula One engine was losing out to modern turbocharged units.

    The misery was highlighted during a Ford VIP visit to the 1983 British Grand Prix at Silverstone, where a touring car battle supported the main event. Blue Oval bigwigs Stuart Turner and Walter Hayes were dismayed to witness a series of Capris being humiliated by V8 Rover SD1s, with only Richard Longman’s class-winning Escort RS1600i to ease the pain.

    Turner and Hayes agreed a plan of action, which coincided with a tour of Cosworth’s premises in the company of American Blue Oval bosses Ed Blanch and Jim Capolongo. Yes, the aim of the visit was to check out the firm’s forthcoming Formula One engine, but how could they ignore a Pinto/T88 bottom end equipped with an aluminium, 16-valve cylinder head, which accidentally-on-purpose found itself the centre of attention…

    By the autumn of 1983, Cosworth had been asked to go ahead with a 2.0-litre engine, based on the SOHC Pinto/T88 cylinder block, but unlike the original naturally-aspirated conversion, this time it would include a turbo and need to produce 180bhp in road trim and more than 300bhp when race-tuned.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine

    But when it was found that 200bhp-plus was easy to achieve for road cars, this was also agreed. Experience later proved that race engines could produce up to 350bhp with relative ease, but the big leap to 550bhp would not come until the RS500-style YBD power unit was developed in 1986.

    Initially coded YAA (YB, the production version came later – see Ford Cosworth YB Engine Codes further down), the original Pinto/16-valve conversion had been designed by Mario Illien in 1983. It featured a very free-breathing cylinder head, a complex inlet manifold and long, tubular exhaust manifold, all optimised for tuning to a 300-to-400bhp race engine – with full-throttle breathing in mind, and not much thought to driveability or refinement.

    By the time ex-Weslake/ex-Lotus engineer Paul Fricker joined Cosworth at the end of 1983, Illien had left. Ford had by then awarded Cosworth a contract to complete the engine, and also to build a facility to produce at least 15,000 units.

    This meant a complete redesign of the engine to make it suitable for road use. The conversion from race to road engine was never easy, and Fricker was always under pressure from Cosworth and Ford.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine

    First there was the original contract of 15,000 engines to be considered: “At one time Ford talked of ending the project after the first 5000, but luckily they never did,” said Fricker.

    Then there were changes with the fuelling system. Originally that was to be produced by Bosch, but following good experiences in Formula One, Cosworth decided to go with Weber-Marelli of Italy. “There, we had three people who were working for just two clients – Ferrari and us,” said Fricker.

    And then a load more work went into re-specifying the turbo. Fricker continued, “We did 400-to-500 hours on the performance test beds at Cosworth. The first time we put one on the durability bed, it lasted just 35 minutes before it blew up.”

    The first YBA prototype started test-bed work in Northampton in June 1984, but the first engines and test cars didn’t go to Weber-Marelli in Italy until September 1984. The YBA was completed, and signed-off, by mid-1985.

    Compared with the basic Pinto, almost everything was changed, except for the cylinder block itself: new cylinder head and valve gear, new steel crankshaft, rods, pistons, and sump. The use of hydraulic valve lifters was a given, and no subsequent engine tuner appears to have suffered from not being able to use conventional lifters.

    “They did weigh more,” Fricker admits, “and there was always a small amount of air in the oil. We ended up changing the design so they couldn’t deflate overnight. On the original engine, if you had a hot engine, then left it parked for a week, the lifters would go down.”

    Cosworth built a new factory at Wellingborough; series production started in 1985 and ended in 1995. Along the way, the YBB evolved. For the Nineties, the big change was to redevelop the engine for use in the EsCos, originally as YBT and (from 1994) as YBP. The YBT engine might have looked little changed, but had advanced in various ways, notably with a hybrid T03/T04B Garrett turbocharger. It was really too big for road cars, but Ford Motorsport needed large enough unit to be homologated to make the Escort Cosworth the rally winner it became.

    YBT cam covers were painted blue instead of the Sierra Cosworth 4×4’s green. Paul Fricker explained: “We needed yet another colour, and we thought it looked nice. We didn’t consult Ford Design until it was too late to get into an artistic argument.”

    With 227bhp at 6250rpm, the YBT engine was extremely flexible. Naturally it ran on unleaded fuel, and an exhaust catalyst was standard. Finally, in 1994, the YBT gave way to the YBP, this one having a smaller T25 turbo, Ford’s EEC-IV electronic engine management, and a restyled camshaft cover. It was more driveable, just as potent, and visually smarter than ever.

    In an 11-year life at Wellingborough, something like 39,000 YB-based engines were made, and it’s still very much the stalwart of the fast Ford scene to this day.

    Ford Cosworth YB Tuning Guide

    Cosworth Engine Block

    There are two main types of Cossie block – known as the 205 and the 200. The latter is a thicker-wall design and was found in 4×4 versions, such as the Escort and 1990 Sapphire. These are easily identified by the numbers cast on the side (although, to confuse things further, the RS500 block was a thick-wall design but stamped 205; it’s recognisable by its smaller core plugs).

    If you want moderate power up to around 350-to-400bhp then either is fine, although good quality fasteners and gaskets are a must for any YB block. But for anything more powerful you should ideally be starting out with the 200 block. The extra material within the block, in particular at the base of the cylinders, makes fitting long studs rather than head bolts an option – this can help improve the sealing between head and block, and ultimately aiding reliability.

    For most engines sub-500bhp, six long studs will be adequate (the centre six, with the closest and furthest fixing retaining the original length bolts or studs) but mega-power engines (or those used in harsh race conditions) will usually feature all ten long studs for even more clamping force. This requires additional machining; the water pump needs modifying to avoid clipping the newly fitted studs at the front end.

    Along with long studs, almost all big-power YBs will feature Nikasil-coated steel liners. These are stronger, have better oil control, and offer less friction than the original bore.

    There are two types of liner: dry or wet. Dry liners are 3mm thick and are sleeved into the original bore. Wet liners are thicker at 6mm, and are so-called because the extensive machining to get them to fit means none of the original bore remains and the new liner encroaches into the block’s waterways.

    Liners and studs are not cheap, though – a fully prepared block will set you back thousands. These days we can also start throwing alloy block options into the mix, which are as strong as the 200 blocks, if not stronger, but are considerably lighter. Smith & Jones Engineering offers alloy blocks in varying bore sizes from standard 90.82mm up to a whopping 96mm, which are available with different deck heights for those looking to lengthen the stroke too.

    Working with a new block like this, ARP/Smith & Jones also offer a new ‘though-stud’ design of head stud, which as the name suggests is a stud and nut design that passes all the way through the block and into the crankshaft main caps, therefore tying the whole engine together from top to bottom.

    Costing around £3500 for a bare block (before you add options like piston cooling jets at £150, and the through studs at £650) they’re normally reserved for the biggest of builds and aren’t commonly found in road cars. But they are the foundation for some of the most powerful YBengine builds we’ve seen.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine

    Cosworth Engine Internals

    The factory internals of the YB are actually very good, especially the stock cast steel rods (much better than most OEM cast iron rods) that have been proven to cope with 500bhp. The only criticism is that they are a bit on the short side. Therefore, to free up a bit more power (as much as 10bhp in some cases), many tuners opt to fit longer con-rods – usually 136mm as opposed to the standard 128mm items.

    Doing so makes the rod angle more favourable, meaning that when the crank rotates, the rod doesn’t travel through such a steep angle and isn’t trying to be forced out of the cylinder wall, but is instead being pushed upwards into the cylinder.

    The stock crankshaft is also very capable as standard – it can cope with most things thrown at it and is only really changed when stroking the engine to a larger displacement. There is one caveat, though – if it has been ground down a size or two it’s best suited to sub-350bhp applications. With the prices of standard-grind cranks on the rise (we’ve seen sellers asking as much as £1500), the price gap between a second-hand original and a new aftermarket item (like the Farndon crank available from Burton Power at less than £1700) is ever decreasing.

    YB pistons are particularly well engineered as standard, and have been proven to work well on 400bhp engines many times over. But when altering the compression ratio or using valve cut-outs (needed for engines running anything more aggressive than BD10 cams) the machining costs can add up. Therefore, many engine builders opt for a set of forged pistons made to their exact required specification instead.

    On the subject of compression ratios, 7.5:1 and 7.2:1 used to be the norm in high-boost applications. But with the advent of better engine management, improved gasket designs, and greater clamping force offered by stud-and-nut kits, many tuners are taking advantage of them to maintain a higher compression ratio – in some cases actually increasing it from the standard 8.0:1 to over 9.0:1.

    Cosworth Turbo and Exhaust

    The turbo dominates the YB like a massive chili on a tiny pizza, and many people think it is the business end of the engine. In reality, it is just another component part of the entire YB package, and as such needs to be carefully considered to work with everything else in the engine when tuning.

    The standard Garrett T3 found on the Sierra and Sapphire Cosworth is good enough to see you with around 300bhp, and specialists like Turbo Performance can make use of tricks like cut-back blades, and 360-degree thrust bearings to help improve performance of the OE unit.

    But the traditional upgrade is the Escort Cosworth’s larger T34 turbo – which can be utilised to give 350-to-400bhp. Because they are all based on the same Garrett T3 core, specialists like Turbo Performance can actually pick-and-mix housings to create a T34 with the T3’s smaller 0.48 exhaust housing, for example, to provide greater peak power than a stock T3 but with less lag than a stock T34.

    From there a T38 hybrid will see you well into 400bhp power figures, and an even bigger T4-based turbo from the RS500 will take you the rest of the way up to 500bhp.

    These upgrades have been proven to work time and again with great results, but with the development in technology and newer turbos now available, the choice has opened up even further. Garrett’s roller-bearing GT range of turbos have been used to great effect on the YB, and the new BorgWarner EFR series of turbos are showing very impressive results in terms of power and, thanks to their twin-scroll design, driveability and quick spool-up too.

    With so many options available, turbo choice is virtually endless, and it is best left to the experts to decide what will work best for a given application.

    The good news, though, is that the YB’s exhaust manifold is of a twin-scroll design as standard, so is ready to accept a twin-scroll turbo without too much fuss. Bigger turbos often require a larger mounting flange, however, so it’s often worth upgrading to a tubular exhaust manifold at the same time. Doing so also makes installation of an external wastegate easier too, which many tuners prefer over the OEM-style internal wastegate, to offer more accurate boost control.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine

    Cosworth Engine Inlet and Injectors

    On the opposite side of the engine to the turbo, inlet manifold choice has also improved drastically over the years. To start with, the RS500 eight-injector manifold was a must, then the ‘Swedish-style’ inlet was everyone’s fancy, and now nearly all big-bhp YB builds feature a Hart inlet.

    There are slight differences in performance between them, but all that really matters is that they all perform much better than the standard inlet, which becomes a restriction at around 500bhp. Roller-barrel throttles have also been used to good effect in many applications, but as they were only ever designed to work on 300bhp WRC cars, when you start to push enough air for over 500bhp through them they don’t always like it. Another option is to fit a set of individual throttle bodies, which can be used with a plenum chamber – these will have performance advantages, but considering a single throttle body gives such good results they are used only when looking to squeeze out every last bhp possible.

    The traditional route of replacing injectors was to go for the next size up in the Bosch range. The first step is dark greens or 803s, capable of 300-to-330bhp, costing around £320 as set from trusted sellers such as Motorsport Developments. Continuing up, the colour-coded Bosch items are ‘light-blues’ or 400s, which are good for up to 400bhp, then ‘greys’ or 403s, which supply the juice for 400-to-450bhp.

    Sticking with the Bosch injectors but wanting more than 450bhp involves simply adding more of them – another four, in fact. This utilises the RS500’s or WRC-style eight injector setup. Eight greens will provide enough fuel for over 500bhp, but the for ultimate power eight greys are needed.

    Today, sophisticated modern engine management and improved injector designs mean you can buy items that will deliver over twice as much fuel as a set of greys, so there’s no need to add the complexity and expense of an eight-injector setup. Traditionally, larger injectors were more difficult to control at lower engine speeds, so two sets of smaller injectors were the preferred method of ensuring low-speed driveability coupled with peak power potential. Now, modern injectors/ECUs are more capable of delivering at both ends of the scale, so offer a neat and simple alternative.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine

    Cosworth Engine Head and Cams

    The top end of the YB engine is impressive in stock form too – after all, it was designed to go racing. For a stock head, 350bhp is no problem. But at around 500bhp the ports start to become a bit of a restriction. As standard, the inlet ports are 22.5mm and the exhaust ports are 23mm – opening these up to around 25mm and 24mm respectively will be good enough for 500bhp while retaining standard valve sizes. For even more power, the port sizes can be increased to 26/27mm and 25/26mm, but you’ll also need bigger valves to make the most of them.

    As for camshaft options, this will usually depend on what the engine is being built for – there are many off-the-shelf profiles to choose from, and many engine builders have cams ground to their specific requirements too. Top-end engines will be running ‘custom spec’ profiles (closely guarded secrets), and some are so aggressive they actually require the head to be machined in order to fit them; the lobes are so big they physically won’t rotate within the confines of a standard head.

    But for 500bhp engines there are plenty of options. Generally, a BD10 inlet with standard exhaust cam is seen as the first-stage upgrade and works well on a variety of engines, but BD14 and BD16 combinations have also been used to good effect, while some tuners swear by the profile offered by an AB07 cam. As with turbo choice, the cam profile needs to be chosen to work with the rest of the engine spec, so is often best left to the engine builder to decide.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine

    Cosworth YB Engine Management

    Long gone are the days when a simple Stage 3 chip is seen as the way to go. Nowadays, with massive advances in technology we expect a lot more refinement, even from the standard ECU. Features such as closed-loop lambda control, wasted-spark ignition, and the ability to live map have made big improvements, and are ideal for fast-road applications. On top of these there is now a wealth of standalone, aftermarket ECU systems to choose from, all of which are more than capable of running a YB engine.

    It is also worth noting that one major factor in changing to an aftermarket ECU these days is not just because of the additional mapping features, but because it also replaces the standard wiring loom – something that, now it’s all old and crusty, can cause major problems on a Cosworth. Thankfully, companies like Auto Dynamix offer OEM-style replacement wiring looms, or bespoke items to suit your specific setup.

    Modern ECUs also allow tuners to take full advantage of several advances in engine management design since the YB was first introduced; things like coil-on-plug ignition, knock detection and electronic boost control all help aid reliability and performance, while extras such as launch control, full-throttle gear shifts, and anti-lag systems all add to the grin-factor too.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine Codes

    A YB is a YB, right? Wrong. There were actually 20 different versions of the legendary Cosworth engine over the years, and here’s what they were…

    CODE            YEAR            DESCRIPTION

    YAA                1983              Original aftermarket naturally-aspirated, 16-valve conversion for Pinto

    YAB                1984              First turbocharged version of YAA

    YAC                1990              Naturally-aspirated version of YBG for kit cars, with carbs

    YBA                1984              Modified version of YAB

    YBB                1985              Series-production Sierra Cosworth engine

    YBC                1985              Race version of YBB

    YBD                1987              Series-production Sierra Cosworth RS500 engine with big turbo

    YBE1A           1987              Version of YBB for Ford Industrial Power Products, used in the Panther Solo

    YBE2A           1989              Version of YBG for Ford Industrial Power Products, used in the Panther Solo

    YBF                1987              Race version of YBD/RS500 engine

    YBG                1989              ‘Green’ version of YBB used in Sapphire Cosworth 4×4 (US83 emissions)

    YBG (GrpN) 1992              Race version of YBG

    YBJ                1989              ‘Green’ version of YBB used in Sapphire Cosworth 4×4 (15.04 emissions standards)

    YBM               1989              Race version of YBG and YBJ

    YBP                1994              Small-turbo Escort Cosworth engine – fitted with EEC-IV management (launched 1994)

    YBR                1990              Ford rally engine for use in Sapphire Cosworth 4×4

    YBS                1990              Ford rally engine, Group A rally kit, parallel to YBR

    YBT                1992              Escort RS Cosworth big-turbo road engine (rally cars also used engine code)

    YBT (GrpN)  1992              Race version of YBT engine

    YBV                1992              Methanol-fuelled 2.3-litre version of YBM for racing in America

    Ford Cosworth YB Contacts

    Burton Power
    020 8518 9136
    www.burtonpower.com

    Auto Dynamix
    01626 362692
    www.autodynamix.co.uk

    Turbo Performance
    01425 543 303
    www.turboperformanceltd.com

    Collins Performance
    01260 279604
    www.collinsperformance.com

    Mountune Racing
    01277 226666
    www.mountuneracing.com

    Motorsport Developments
    01253 508400
    www.motorsport-developments.co.uk

    Supreme Car Services
    01733 576614

    Modatek
    www.modatek.co.uk

    MA Developments
    www.madevelopments.com

    Field Motorsport
    www.fieldmotorsport.com

    Performance Engine Components
    01376 583030
    www.steelconrods.co.uk

    X-Power Engines
    www.xpowerengines.com

    Matt Lewis Motorsport
    01543 379524
    www.mattlewismotorsportonline.com

    Norris Motorsport
    01773 836274
    www.norrismotorsport.co.uk

    Oppliger Motorsport
    www.oppligermotorsport.com

    Geoff Page Racing
    01621 859993
    www.geoffpageracing.com

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