Tag: Guides

CAR AERODYNAMICS GUIDE

How air flows under or over your car is critical for both its performance and your safety. We investigate the key principles in our car aerodynamics guide.

We’ve all seen race cars and seriously quick performance road cars draped in fancy carbon fibre aerodynamic aids, but far from just giving the car an aggressive get-out-of-my-way appearance they are there to do a specific job. And that job is to direct air into places you want it and divert it away from areas you don’t.

In doing so you can actually use the pressure of the air as you drive through it to gain performance and safety advantages. Get it wrong, and all you will do is increase your car’s drag and therefore hinder its performance. So, let’s take a closer look at what aerodynamics is, what it does, and how you can utilise it on your car.

Before we begin, though, let’s first look at what aerodynamics actually is. The term ‘aerodynamics’ refers to the study of moving air, in particular when it comes into contact with an object. The movement and behaviour of air over an object (in this case, a car) is a technical and highly mathematical area that many experts spend their lifetimes studying. Thankfully, we can pull out the key points that affect you and your performance car, and leave the equations to one side.

In this car aerodynamics guide, we investigate some of the design basics and the key areas to focus on when considering aerodynamics.

What are aerodynamics?

How your car moves through the air is a critical combination of events that have a direct impact on its performance, stability and safety. At the simplest level, if you imagine the front of your car when you are driving, the air you are hitting can either go under or over it. The point on your front bumper at which the airflow divides to go either over or under the car is called the stagnation point. From here, the air underneath the car has to deal with objects that create a lot of drag: the wheels, exhaust, driveshafts and suspension components are all lumpy, drag-inducing objects.

Aerodynamic drag is the force that directly opposes the motion of a car. To be specific, about a third of your car’s overall drag comes from the underside. On top of this, another third comes from the air going over the car (the whole exterior) and the remaining third comes from the airflow through your grille, radiator, intercooler and through your engine bay. Every production car goes through testing to assign it a number, known as a drag coefficient, or Cd. The lower the number, the lower the car’s drag, and when you consider that at motorway speeds over half of the power required to maintain your speed is needed to overcome drag, you start to see how important this figure is, especially for fuel economy.

Typical figures for Cd are in the region of 0.3-0.4 for production road cars. Some cars are particularly aerodynamic, such as the new Porsche Taycan, which has a Cd of just 0.22. On the other end of the scale, open-wheel race cars have a much higher drag coefficient thanks mainly to the rotation of the wheels, which creates a lot of drag. An F1 car, for example, has a Cd in the region of 1.0.

Car aerodynamics guide: What does a splitter do?

Bolting on a large front splitter to your car is a fairly easy way to add downforce, and effectively pushes the front of the car into the ground at speed. This is great for cornering and braking, where a high level of front-end grip is required. Another plus is that it reduces the proportion of lift-inducing airflow that is directed underneath the car, and instead directs it over the top of the car. A smaller, knock-on downside to a front splitter is that it increases the frontal area of the car, which has a direct relationship with drag – but the advantages outweigh the disadvantages when grip is critical. On race cars, a low, protruding front splitter is a common sight, but this is best suited to smooth, flat circuit tarmac and stiff suspension.

On a road car, it’s a fine balance as to how low you can go without ripping one off when pulling into the driveway. Another method of reducing the portion of airflow underneath the car is a little simpler: if you lower your car on coilovers or stiffened lowering springs, less airflow will be directed under the car, which reduces lift and drag at the same time, which is why cars like the new GT have systems that actually lower the car by 50mm when in top speed and track modes. Lowering your car has more benefits that you might think!

What do canards do?

Bumper canards (also referred to as dive planes) are becoming increasingly popular in the tuning scene and, like a front splitter, they increase downforce at the front of the car. Usually constructed from carbon fibre, they are bolted to the sides of the front bumper, most commonly in sets of four. They also direct airflow away from underneath the car, which is highly desirable for reducing lift, but they do increase drag as a result. Canards only have a noticeable impact at higher speeds and are best used to fine-tune the aerodynamic characteristics of the car. For road car use, it’s questionable as to whether canards can be justified on a performance level.

Car aerodynamics guide: What does a rear wing do?

Just as splitters increase downforce at the front of the car, a rear wing provides downforce at the rear. They’re often referred to as spoilers, which is technically incorrect – a spoiler is there to ‘spoil’ any undesirable flow of air over the rear of a car (the clue’s in the name), in order to reduce lift or increase fuel efficiency. A wing, as fitted to many racers and to the rear of the Sierra and Escort Cosworths, is a device that proactively creates downforce at the rear, in order to increase rear-wheel grip and add stability. The rear wing on the Sierra Cosworth produces 70-to-80kgs of downforce at 100mph, and the Escort Cosworth’s rear wing gives 40-to-50kg of downforce at 100mph, so you can see how effective they are at offering grip over the rear wheels – as anyone who has driven a three-door Sierra without a rear wing will testify.

The angle of attack for the blade of the wing is critical; it has a large impact on aerodynamic drag, and also effects the way the downforce is distributed. For example, the Escort Cosworth rear wing has a different angle of attack to the Sierra’s due to being 4WD not RWD. The shape and positioning of the wing is also vital, and many aftermarket rear wings offer adjustability. If you’re serious about going fast on track, then buy a wing that comes with some CFD (computational fluid dynamics) data – this can link the amount of downforce, drag and power consumption with speed. That way you know that, at 100mph, you have the equivalent weight of three fully-grown male badgers sitting on the back of the car (or whatever it may be). It would be even better to invest in some wind tunnel time, but that costs serious bucks and for most road and track cars simply buying a decent, lightweight rear wing is sufficient.

A Gurney flap (named after American racing driver Dan Gurney, who first used the concept successfully in open-wheel racing in 1970s) is sometimes fitted to rear wings, as with the RS500. This is a piece of technology that has been borrowed from aeronautics. A small strip of material, usually at a right angle to the surface of the wing, helps a clean separation of air from the wing and maximizes downforce.

What does a spoiler do?

Many performance cars come fitted with spoilers as standard, and this isn’t just for aesthetic reasons – safety plays a large part here too. Spoilers are used to reduce the turbulent airflow at the back of the car by creating a clean separation of flow, which reduces unwanted lift. This might be worth considering before you go unbolting your car’s standard spoiler! Active rear spoilers, such as the one found on the latest Ford GT (which, when extended is technically a rear wing, but when is hidden is a spoiler) double up as air brakes and not only offer stability when on the move, but offer huge amounts of drag under heavy braking to help slow the car, similar to when a plane lands.

Aerodynamic aids don’t just have to be on the front or rear of the car: take the humble five-door Sierra as an example; early models came without the little rubber strips around the rear quarterlight windows and as a result suffered badly from cross-winds and felt quite unstable at higher speeds. This was rectified by Ford in 1985, when the firm introduced rubber strips (known as strakes) on later models.

Car aerodynamics guide: What does an undertray do?

There are big gains to be made by optimising the airflow underneath your car, and there have been various techniques used over the years, particularly on race cars, to find advantages in this area.

The main goal is to create an area of low pressure underneath the car so that there’s not an opposing upwards force fighting the downforce being created by the splitters and spoilers you’ve just bolted on. The main way to create an area of low pressure is to accelerate the airflow underneath the car. This is linked to Bernoulli’s principle, which states that an increase in air speed results in a reduction in pressure.

An entirely flat floor that completely bypasses the drag-creating underfloor area would be the best solution. This technique is only really adopted in full-on race cars but another solution for track cars is to use a splitter or undertray that extends underneath the engine to minimize drag created by engine bay components. This technology has even found its way onto fuel-efficient road cars, which use an extended front lip and part undertray to reduce drag and improve fuel economy.

What does a rear diffuser do?

A rear diffuser is used to help the high-speed airflow underneath the car rejoin the slower-moving air behind the car. This mixing of different airspeeds often gives rise to unwanted drag, so a diffuser is used to expand and slow the air at the back of the car before it joins the wake behind the car.

The use of longitudinal fins in the diffuser is common and promotes rear end high-speed stability too by ensuring that the airflow direction and speed is controlled.

Diffusers are often fitted to race and track cars, but not always at the correct angle. Believe it or not, there is a window of effectiveness for a rear diffuser, which – although a subjective calculation – is said to be between seven and ten degrees.

What does ducting do?

Ducting is vital in any car but particularly in turbocharged cars where heat management is more of an issue. Be it an intercooler, radiator, oil cooler or brakes, having proper ducting is the only way to ensure that airflow gets to the object you are trying to cool.

For example, if you’ve got a front-mount intercooler fitted with big gaps around the sides and between your bumper (as with many people who fit the smaller standard Sierra headlights to Cosworths to gain a bigger ‘cooling area’), then the air will always take the path of least resistance as opposed to flowing through the core and maximising cooling. If you offer the air no choice but to go through the item you want to be cooled with the correct ducting, then it’ll do its job properly.

Ducting also applies to cars going for top-speed runs such as at the Bonneville Salt Flats, where it’s commonplace to see duct tape over the bonnet shuts to stop drag being created. In the UK these techniques have been used by the likes of Reyland Motorsport with its previous Escort Cosworth project, which hit 200mph at Bruntingthorpe. Careful attention needs to be paid so that the car still receives the necessary levels of cooling to the engine, though!

What are active aerodynamics?

The latest aero technology is active aerodynamics, which many manufacturers are now fitting to production vehicles. By having components such as grille flaps that can move, the car’s ECU can control the aerodynamics. For example, Ford’s Active Grille Shutter features motorised horizontal vanes that open and close to alter the amount of air going through the grille and into the cooling package. The effect this has is twofold: first, it helps the engine warm up quicker and thus reduces exhaust emissions; it also helps reduce aerodynamic drag, which Ford claims can be by as much as six per cent when the grille is fully closed. This new technology is designed to improve economy but has potential benefits for performance cars too, and machines like the Ford GT supercar make use of the same principles to improve performance. For example, when the rear wing is stowed, the front splitter and undertray produce an imbalance in downforce, so the GT has active slots in the front bumper that allow air to bypass the effects of the splitter; when the rear wing is up and rear downforce is increased, these front slots close and you get the full effect of the front downforce too. The rear wing itself is also able to take-up different angles (doubling as an air brake when needed, too) and features a retractable Gurney flap. If you’re interested in aerodynamics, especially the latest active aero systems, then do a quick internet search for the Ford GT and you’ll find loads more info on all these systems and how they work.

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May 27, 2021
NISSAN Z-CARS: A HISTORY OF THE SPORTS CARS

The Datsun 240Z is the great grandfather of today’s Japanese performance cars, and its arrival – amazingly over 50 years ago – heralded a range of successful Nissan Z-cars that did much to establish the marque as a global player, by making reliability cool, especially when attached to power, handling, value for money and panache. And that’s no thanks to George Bernard Shaw… Here’s a history of Nissan Z-cars.

Words: Nigel Fryatt.

Check out the basic specification of the original Datsun 240Z and you can be forgiven for feeling underwhelmed; a two seater, rear-wheel drive sports car with a six cylinder in-line engine more likely to be found in a lorry, designed especially for chubby Americans, and built to be sold cheap. Add to that the fact that all versions could have been called the Nissan Fairlady Z, thanks to the then company boss being infatuated by the George Bernard Shaw musical My Fair Lady believing therefore that ‘fairlady’ was an English word denoting the height of elegance and glamour, and it would have been hard to predict the Z’s prodigious sales success and enduring attraction.

Nissan Z-Cars: Datsun 240Z

You can also add a complex and muddled gestation period that many years later led to US-based German automotive designer Albrecht Goertz taking legal action against the mighty Nissan, to get his part in the 240Z’s story officially recognised, after he had seemingly been erased from the car’s history. Japanese car companies tend to be reluctant to give credit to outsiders, preferring a car’s design to have been a team effort from within the company. Goertz, however, worked as a consultant for the then fledgling Nissan between 1963 and 1965, when they were looking to design a new sports car. He helped produce working prototypes, in association with Yamaha, and it was his influence that suggested the car should be matched directly against the Jaguar E-type and Porsche 911. He also pointed out to the then somewhat naïve Japanese design team that if this car was aimed at America it needed to fit two (possibly well-built) occupants of over 6ft and it needed to do that in comfort, which demanded a significantly bigger interior than was usual for the more compact Japanese physique. The Nissan-Yamaha prototype Goertz worked on was actually shelved in 1965, yet much – including the overall look – was transferred to the new model that arrived in Japan in 1969, launched as the Nissan Fairlady Z.

This new sports car was aimed directly at the US, yet Nissan was nervous that if it failed to be a success it would reflect badly on the company, and so it was decided to use the brand name Datsun on all export models; presumably Western customers would obviously be too daft to know it was built by Nissan. Anecdotal evidence also claims that the President of Nissan US, Yutaka Katayama, stopped the first models that arrived in America from being delivered to dealers until all the ‘Fairlady’ badges were removed and the cars became known simply by the model name, 240Z.

Katayama’s actions were not always well received by the more conservative executives back in Japan and he was accused of having ‘gone native’ and become too American! However, he knew how to sell cars, what the American market wanted and he knew the 240Z was perfect. The relatively simple 2393cc carburetored ohc six cylinder engine developed 150bhp, it handled like a sports car, it was comfortable and roomy (thanks to Goertz), ultra-reliable and cheap as a Big Mac and fries… The US launch price was around $3500, at the time, that was half the price of a Porsche 911. It would accelerate to 60mph in around eight seconds, which was competitive with the Porsche and top out at 120mph, admittedly slightly less than the equivalent Jaguar E-type’s 140 maximum speed, but did we mention the 240Z was very reliable? And cheap.

To boost sales, Katayama, who became known in US motoring circles as “Mr K”, put the 240Z on the race track immediately it arrived, where it won the well-respected 1970/71 season SCCA National Championship. After arriving in Europe, the 240Z also went international rallying, won many supporters (especially on British forest stages) due to the tail-happy, mud splattering handling characteristics on the loose, and the 240Z’s toughness and reliability saw it win the highly prestigious East African Safari Rally in 1971, repeating that victory two years later.

When the 240Z came to the end of its production run in 1973, nearly 200,000 had been built, with over 70 per cent of them sold in the US. Yutaka Katayama had proved he knew his market, although he continued to annoy the bosses back in Japan until he was eventually persuaded to take early retirement, only to reappear later in the Z story, since the tale had only just begun…

Bigger, fatter, but better Nissan Z-cars?

It’s an incontrovertible law that everything in America gets bigger and fatter eventually and that can be said of the 240Z, which from 1974 to 1978 grew to be a 2+2 GT rather than a sprightly two seater. Interestingly when some manufacturers produce a 2+2 coupe from an existing design, they work from the existing overall dimensions and concentrate on refiguring the interior space, Nissan actually increased the wheelbase by nearly a foot, kept the front section as was, and completely redesigned the rear. For the 260 and 280Z that didn’t upset the car’s lines too much, but does perhaps help to explain the rather ungainly looks of later models.

Bigger did mean more weight, and despite engine mods that included Bosch fuel injection available from 1975, the weight and US Emission laws meant that in the States the car was now more GT Tourer, less outright sports car. Nevertheless it still managed to keep its nose in front on the race track. In 1975, a privately entered 260Z became the first Japanese car to race at Le Mans, admittedly not that successfully, but it makes a great quiz question. Actor, and serious racer, Paul Newman took his 280Z to the 1976 SCCA National production class championship and forged a long-term racing career with the Japanese company.

When the 280ZX arrived in 1978, a rather low key launch from Nissan had people asking ‘what’s new?’ Certainly it looked much the same, when in fact it was a new car from the ground up. Now much bulkier than the original 240Z concept, it was more luxurious, quieter and softer riding, all the things demanded by the dominant American market. It came as a two seater and 2+2, then with the ‘T-bar’ roof version. For the 1979 Frankfurt Motor Show we got to see the 280ZX 2+2 TT, which was a T-bar and turbocharged. The turbo version originally was only available as an automatic as Nissan didn’t believe the manual gearbox could cope with all that power – around 180bhp. This 280ZX Turbo model never made it to Britain, such was the demand in the US, but even over there, times were changing with the big Detroit manufacturers swapping the ubiquitous V8s for smaller V6 units. Nissan followed suit, taking the V6 from its ‘Tokyo Taxi’ Cedric saloon; for export markets this was in 3-litre normally aspirated and turbocharged formats.

Nissan Z-Cars: Nissan 300ZX

This engine pointed to the future, but everyone accepted that the overall ‘look’ of the latest Z-car had fulfilled its potential and a new model was sorely needed; enter the 300ZX in 1984.

Brave new world for Z-Cars

Now the Eighties were a problem for many; we gained ‘disco’ music, big hair, odd clothes and confused car design. To this author’s eye, the first series 300ZX is a great example of all that was wrong with Eighties’ design; a confusion of straight lines and curves, exacerbated by ghastly, seemingly unnecessary trim, topped off with equally unnecessary but legally demanded impact bumpers. While the looks were questionable for some, it didn’t lack performance. Autocar magazine took a 2+2 UK spec turbo model and managed a 0-60mph in just over seven seconds and a 137mph top speed, which for a weighty car with only 230bhp available, is impressive. The Datsun brand name was dropped at this time and so this became the first Nissan Z-car in all markets (thankfully, the Fairlady moniker stayed just for Japan). It kept selling, so you can’t blame Nissan for plugging along with a design which, while still kept a nod to the original Z car was beginning to look very outdated; but things changed from 1990 when western markets got the all-new 300ZX.

If you compare the profiles of a series one and series two 300ZX, you can see the resemblance, yet everything changed. Everything. The only commonality between the two was the displacement of the engine; still 3-litre, but now DOHC, with variable valve timing. Twin Garrett turbochargers were available, with dual intercoolers and this model could summon up 300bhp, 0-60mph was in the five to six second bracket and it would bust a 155mph top speed. There was even the option of four-wheel steering on the top spec model. What’s more it looked good, if a tad conservative. Available as a two-seater, 2+2 and even a full convertible but, and there’s always a but, it came at a cost. The successful Z-car value-for-money motif could no longer be linked to the new 300ZX. Competition was stronger, SUVs were becoming the ‘must have’ vehicle, which when added to a relatively high price in the main export area of America, saw sales drop and the last 300ZX was imported into the US in the 1996 model year, where it was taken to the Peterson Automotive Museum in Los Angeles.

Despite losing its main market, the 300ZX continued for a couple more years in Japan to achieve close to a decade of sales. You could have been forgiven for thinking, however, that it would be the very last of the Nissan Z-cars.

Nissan Z-Cars: Nissan 350Z

Towards the end of the 1990s, Nissan was in financial trouble; sales had fallen, the SUV era hadn’t brought it the necessary riches; in truth, Nissans were boring. Within the company, however, the Z-car was still held with much regard. Nissan started an official classic restoration scheme in the US, buying old 240Zs, restoring them and selling them back to the market. Laudable, but fruitless and certainly not cost effective. But then at the 1999 North American Auto Show, a concept 240Z appeared. In its bright burnt orange colour scheme it had the soul of the original, and it had “Mr K”, former President of Nissan US in its corner, supportive, enthusiastic and influential as ever. The decision to build, however, came from an unlikely source. Renault bought a major shareholding in Nissan, basically saving the company and the man charged with leading this new partnership, Carlos Ghosn, announced that they would be building a new 240Z, and it would be profitable. Ghosn’s achievements with the Renault-Nissan conglomerate are impressive, which makes his more recent extraordinary fall from grace and clandestine ‘escape’ from Japan, where he faces numerous charges brought by Nissan, all the more dramatic. Whatever the charges against him from Nissan may be, he certainly made the decision that kept the Z-car alive and in 2002, we all fell in love with the 350Z.

A squat, rounded and sexy two-seater, the design matched the age. Aimed, in the US, to compete directly with the Porsche Boxster in terms of performance and all-important price, the launch models had the 3.5-litre V6, but there were numerous options including the Nismo (Nissan’s in-house performance and motorsport division had been established in 1984, but for many in Europe, until the 350Z, it was a relatively unknown concern). The car arrived at a perfect time when Japanese performance cars were booming, the modification industry was exploding and the 350Z seemed to cover all the bases. 2005 was celebrated with the 35th Anniversary Edition models, complete with a revised engine management system that allowed, even encouraged drivers to hit the 7000rpm redline. It even became a film star when a modified 350Z took centre stage in the highly successful franchise Fast and Furious: Tokyo Drift, introducing the Z-car format to a completely new generation.

Nissan Z-Cars: Nissan 370Z

The 370Z model arrived for the 2009 model year. Its 3.7-litre engine displacement version was tested by the American Motor Trend magazine where it achieved a 4.7-second 0-60mph time, making it the fastest production Z-car ever built. We now had six-speed manual or seven-speed automatic with paddle shifters. Early in 2020, we were even able to buy a 50th Anniversary edition 370Z, the BRE, a model that paid homage to on one of the original 240Z race teams, Brock Racing Enterprises; a racing heritage that can span five decades is a major achievement, as is the longevity of the 370Z, which has been on sale, with very few significant updates since 2009. Nissan has been reluctant to end production, despite sales having been low for many years. The reason? The Z Proto or 400Z. Sadly, here in the UK, we won’t be getting the upcoming addition to the Nissan Z-Cars family, but we’ve put together a little guide to the upcoming Z model here.

Feature first appeared in Fast Car magazine.

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May 17, 2021
AUDI TT MK2 BUYING GUIDE

We know the Mk1 is a bargain, but the Audi TT Mk2 is now creeping into budget for most, we check out what you need to know before parting ways with your cash.

The Mk1 Audi TT was something of a revelation. We mentioned in our Mk1 buying guide that cars simply do not go into production in what is essentially concept form. So how does a manufacturer follow that? It does so by producing a car with cleaner lines but thoroughly refreshing it to incorporate the latest technology and boy does it make the Audi TT Mk2 a good one.

History

While the Mk1 made do with a Golf platform that in some ways hindered its abilities, the 2006-launched Audi TT Mk2 got a slightly more bespoke package in the form of an aluminium and steel Audi space frame based on the PQ35 platform, otherwise known as the A5. You might be thinking that’s a car that’s too big for this application, but in truth the Mk2 offered sharper handling and driver involvement to give a more rewarding package overall.

As enthusiasts you’ll know that you got a whole host of engine choices with the Mk2 TT, just like you do on most Audi models; this allows you to properly decide what suits your needs. First up, Audi ditched the Mk1’s 1.8-litre turbo four-pot in favour of the 2.0-litre TFSI found in the Golf GTI. This meant that the starting block for performance on the TT when launched in 2006 was 200bhp, 0-62mph in 6.4 seconds and 150mph top speed. This was exclusively in coupé form to begin with, your roadsters didn’t go on sale until the tailed of 2006, some eight months after the coupé launched. The roadsters did get the same engine and transmission options as offered on the coupé models.

Next up, that peach of an engine from the Mk1, the 3.2-litre V6, was carried across. Performance was rated at a healthy 250bhp with figures claiming a 0-62mph sprint time of just 5.7 seconds and electronically-limited 155mph top speed. One thing to note here, all V6s were equipped with Quattro, while the lesser-powered 2.0-litre came only in FWD application. That’s crucial when choosing which model takes your fancy.

Following the launch of the roadster late in 2006, the TTS arrived. This boosted power to 268bhp and was fitted again only with Quattro meaning your 0-62mph time was now 5.4 seconds and top speed again was limited to 155mph. The roadster version was marginally slower, but the difference is negligible. Another thing to note here, all TTS models were fitted with Audi’s adaptive magnetic damping system. While the clever damping system isn’t known to be a common problem, fixing any issues can be expensive so do take that into account.

Those wanting the sports car lifestyle but with the extra economy could do so following the launch of the TTS thanks to a 2.0-litre turbodiesel with 170bhp. But it’s the model that followed that got not only Audi and TT enthusiasts excited, but the motoring world, welcome, then, the TTRS. The long-awaited car was teased for some time before it arrived in 2009 and it came with that whopping 2.5-litre five-pot that hit the sweet spot in terms of performance as well as that exotic noise. Performance was a colossal 340bhp taking the 0-62mph down a whole second on the TTS to 4.4 seconds and on to 174mph if the first owner opted to have the speed limiter lifted. Now was a car that had gorgeous lines as well as a peach of an engine that could worry even the more capable supercars in the real world. Mated to the DSG gearbox and Quattro system, gear shifts were sharp and traction was rarely an issue.

How do you follow a 2.5-litre five-pot, with a 1.8-litre TFSI of course… it’s confusing how Audi chooses to release products in an unusual timeline, but that’s what it is. This was now the baby of the range, and the most affordable. Gone was Quattro and FWD replaced it. Power sat at a humble 160bhp.

The following year, 2010, the entire range got a mid-life update. This brought in LED daytime running lights as standard for all models badged S Line, while the 2.0-litre TFSI engines got a spruce up in performance, lifting power from 200bhp to 211bhp and giving all non-RS models a sport button to adjust throttle sensors.

At the top of the tree for the Mk2 TT was the TTRS Plus, a designation that Audi would later go on to use on its R8 models. This lifted power over the already bonkers 340bhp RS to 360bhp. Not too shabby for a “hairdressers” car.

With the history out of the way, it’s time to look at what you should be looking out for when buying one. The good news is that because it’s a 2006+ car, the oldest examples are only 13 years old; VagCom diagnostics tool can be your best friend if you know how to use it. Most of the information about the car can be read through the tool, this includes the current wear on the DSG box, which is crucial as we know problems with the box can be rather expensive.

However, don’t make the mistake of thinking that because the car isn’t old you shouldn’t be too worried about missing history or slight problem areas. History on any car is always key; the car you’re looking at may only be 7 years old but if it’s missed the last two major services and has been bashed off the limiter half of its life, you don’t want to be the person that picks up the invoice for the problem when it eventually breaks.

Engines

You’ll be pleased to hear that all five engines have proven to be mostly reliable over the years should servicing have been adhered to. The intervals for such are 19,000 miles or two years, whichever comes first. If you’re looking at the 2.0-litre models, note that cambelts should have been changed at 75,000 miles, if the car you’re looking at is coming up to that milestone, the cost of replacement isn’t astronomical, but between £300 and £500 (depending on independent or main dealer) is a strong bargaining tool when negotiating.

Remember there are two different 2.0-litre engines, one before and one after 2010. The earlier cars were fitted with the EA113 engine, which is cambelt driven, the latter is the EA888 engine, which is chain driven. Both are tuneable, and both are known to be reliable.

Ignition coil packs are one of known problems and can cause misfiring. You’ll notice this if the engine isn’t running smoothly or if the engine fails altogether. Each cylinder carries a coil pack and that’ll set you back around £35 per pack, so bear that in mind.

Owners have noted that the TT can be fairly heavy on oil use, so this shouldn’t be cause for concern, just something to be wary of before buying one.

Transmission

Most cars were sold with a DSG gearbox, thus most cars you’ll be looking at buying will have the semi-auto box. This is no bad thing as the DSG system is a sophisticated and slick operating machine, when it works. Audi did recall Mk2s built between August and September 2009 for incorrect clutch temperature readings by the ECU, which in turn caused the clutches to disengage and lose drive. Check the history to make sure that’s been completed.

Elsewhere, the S Tronic DSG gearboxes can also be troublesome at low speeds, if one starts to stutter or hesitate, you’ve got a problem on your hands. It’s advised that once getting the engine and gearbox up to temperature on your test drive, slow right down and crawl, listening out for any signs of damage, you’ll start to kangaroo if there’s a major problem. Audi specialists pinpointed the problem to the Mechatronic control unit, which will either need replacing at the tune of nearly £1000, or rebuilt but a specialist auto-electrician who’ll have it done for under half that price.

As for manual owners, the clutch isn’t high on your problems list. The clutch should have been replaced at 60,000 miles. Remember, the Quattro powered cars were the more powerful models and thus will most likely have been launched hard over the years, which is something to bear in mind for both the manual cars as well as the DSG equipped ones.

On all Quattro models, get a mechanic to check out the Haldex system, it has been known to create problems and can also be expensive to fix. If it’s had a hard life of being launched, wear over the years can build up.

Suspension and brakes

With the Mk2, Audi introduced a refreshed multilink rear suspension system as well as MacPherson strut at the front end. Most of the models you’ll be looking at come with this set up, but as mentioned above, some were opted with the Magnetic Ride system. In truth, owners tend to think the sport setting with the Magnetic ride is too stiff for UK roads, so this shouldn’t necessarily be at the top of your wish list, although some cars do carry a premium with this system.

There was a recall on the Mk2 for cars built between May and July 2009 for the braking system, more notably the vacuum pipe on the servo that may become damaged. This was more of a precaution, rather than a necessity. The other thing to note with the brakes is a squeal coming from the front brakes at low speed. Some owners swapped out the discs and pads which did the trick, others simply placed copper grease on the back of the brake pads.

According to owners, tyres is a huge issue with the TT. Not only do tyres wear far quicker on Quattro models than FWD models, but some owners put cheap tyres on. This is a big no as TTs are sensitive to tyres. Don’t cheap out, get yourself a decent set of tyres.

Note, the TT doesn’t come with a spare wheel or space-saver, instead it came with a compressor and repair kit. This will 9 times out of 10 be missing from the car you’re buying.

Interior

When buying, do the usual checks. Make sure all of the dashboard lights work, the radio, sat-nav, windows etc all work. If you’re looking at roadsters, check to make sure the roof folds away under its own power and seals shut when erecting. It sounds simple but so many forget to check all of the electrical points. Why have a roadster if you can’t actually take the roof down?

Make sure the roof is sealed, too. This is most likely something to test after you’ve bought the car but ask with the owner if it’s OK you test that the roof is sealed properly. Just use a hosepipe over the car and check for water in the boot and cabin. Wet door cards are a clear indication of a poor seal. It’s not an expensive fix, but not worth the hassle with so many cars on the market.

Audi was pretty generous with standard equipment on the Mk2 TT so you should find Bluetooth, air con and a flat bottom steering wheel as standard. Don’t fall for adverts claiming these as extras. The sat-nav was optional, as was the Bose sound system.

Word of advice, don’t buy a Mk2 TT if you plan on using the rear seats. It’s not suitable for anyone unless in use by a toddler.

Prices

The best thing about the Audi TT Mk2 is that prices have decreased considerably. Now, even a 3.2 is going to cost no more than £6,000, albeit this will be a high-mileage example. The 2.0-litre petrols are by far the cheapest, 100k mile examples are under £5000 in both coupe and roadster form.

If you want a TTS, you’re looking at around £7k to £10k for examples with between 60,000 and 100,000 miles, while the one you really want, the TTRS, will set you back at least £13k. We’d expect to pay more like £15k for a cleaner example.

Audi TT Mk2 modifications

So you’ve bought your new Audi TT, now you want to make it your own. Follow these simple steps and you’ll be well on your way to create a show-ready car with enough punch to back up its looks.

It doesn’t matter which engine we’re looking at, choices for modifications come far and wide. That being said, we’ll start here with a TTS, which uses the 2.0-litre turbocharged engine with 272bhp on tap in standard form.

First up, the exhaust:

Downpipe

There’s a ton of options out there from some of the most well-known exhaust fabricators in the UK, so the choice is down to you. Scorpion offer a de-cat system or sports catalyst for under £300. Couple this with a map and you’ll be looking at the mid-300bhp range with the torque to match. You’ll also unlock some extra grunt in the form of sound, you might even gain a few pops and bangs along the way…

Cat-back

You can either match a cat-back exhaust up with a fresh downpipe or you can just opt for a cat-back system and mate to the standard exhaust. You’ll see less gains overall, but you’ll free up a few ponies and transform the sound of the car. Milltek will be perfect for the job, livening up the sound without adding a silly amount of drone. Prices start at around £600.

Now to sort that drop out

There are two ways you can go about doing this, either focus on creating the ultimate show car, or focus on creating a crisp handling street weapon. The first option will see you looking towards air lift performance. The other option will see you looking at the likes of Bilstein or KW. If your primary focus is road driving, your best bet will be a spring and damper set up from Bilstein. The B14 kit retains some level of comfort on the road, but will allow you to take part in the odd track day without problem. KW, on the other hand, will be much more focused for track work with 30-way adjustable damping. Prices for the KW system sits at around £1700, while the B14 kit comes in cheaper at £900.

Wheels

Again, options are far and wide here but we’re going to focus on some lightweight BBS E88s that can be bought in a range of different sizes. The lighter, classic motorsport look will transform the appearance while also helping to shed a few pounds in the weight category. The best thing is that these look at home on the racetrack or centre stage at a show.

ECU

There’s a few choices out there for ECU tuning, all of whom promise similar power figures and have become household names in the VAG tuning world, we’re of course talking about APR, MRC and Revo. A simple ECU tweak can see gains up to 300bhp. However, couple the map with the upgrades listed above and a new air intake and you can see more like 330bhp. For that extra bit more, Revo recommend an uprated high pressure fuel pump as well as an uprated intercooler to see power up to around 365bhp.

If you’ve got a DSG gearbox, don’t forget that the Transmission Control Unit (TCU) can also be updated giving sharper gear changes and higher RPM limits.

Interior

Last but not least, the interior. Those rear seats have got to go. They’re no good for regular sized humans, let alone toddlers. You can save a decent chunk of weight by taking those out. You could then go further, remove some sound proofing here and there to bring the weight down further, or you can transform the rear with a half cage for that Clubsport look or go the opposite direction with a new entertainment system.

Source

May 5, 2021